Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain RangesCollie, Norman
History
Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges
Collie, Norman
Himalaya Mountains; Mountaineering
Mr. Johnson was a most enthusiastic mountaineer, and, owing to a
suggestion made by him and Mr. Drew to the Asiatic Society of Bengal,
efforts were made in 1866 to form a Himalayan Club, but through want of
support and sympathy the club was never started. Mountaineering was
indeed in those days so little appreciated by the political department
of India that this journey of Mr. Johnson's in 1865 was made the excuse
for a reprimand, owing to which he left the Service and took employment
under the Maharaja of Kashmir.
About the same time that Johnson was exploring the district to the
north and north-east of Ladák, the officers of the survey, Captain
T. G. Montgomerie, H. H. Godwin Austen, and others, were actively at
work on the Astor Gilgit and Skardu districts. They pushed glacier
exploration much further than had been done before; and it is quite
remarkable how much they accomplished when one considers that in those
days climbers had only just learned the use of ice-axes and ropes, and
the knowledge of ice and snow even in the Alps was very limited. The
exploration of the Baltoro glacier, the discovery of the second highest
peak in the Himalaya--K^{2}, 28,278 feet--and the peaks Gusherbrum
and Masherbrum, by H. H. Godwin Austen, and his ascent of the Punmah
glacier to the old Mustagh pass will remain as marvels of mountain
exploration.
In the next ten or fifteen years but little mountaineering was done
in the Himalaya. The Government Survey in Garhwal, Kumaon, and Sikkim
was carried on, and more correct maps of the mountain ranges in these
parts were issued. On Kamet about 22,000 feet was reached. In Sikkim,
Captain Harman, during his work for the survey, made several attempts
to climb some of the loftier peaks. He revisited the Donkia pass, and,
like Dr. Hooker, saw from it the two enormous peaks far away to the
north of Nepaul. In order to measure their height trigonometrically,
he remained on the summit of the pass (18,500 feet) all night, but
unfortunately was so severely frost-bitten that ultimately he was
invalided home.
In the year 1883 Mr. W. W. Graham started for India with the Swiss
guide Joseph Imboden, on a purely mountaineering expedition; he first
went to Sikkim, then attacked the group round Nanda Devi in Garhwal,
and later returned to Sikkim and the mountains near Kanchenjunga.
This expedition of Graham's remains still the most successful
mountaineering effort that has been made amongst the Himalaya. No less
than seven times was he above 20,000 feet on the mountains, the three
highest ascents being, Kabru (Sikkim), 24,015 feet, A^{21} or Mount
Monal (Garhwal), 22,516 feet, and a height of 22,500-22,700 feet on
Dunagiri (Garhwal). It is perhaps to be regretted that Graham did not
write a book setting forth in detail all his experiences, though a
short account of his travels and ascents may be found in vol. xii. of
the Alpine Club _Journal_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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