Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain RangesCollie, Norman
History
Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges
Collie, Norman
Himalaya Mountains; Mountaineering
The great Ennerdale climb is up this Ennerdale face. At the bottom
a broad grassy band, 'The Great Doupe,' runs across the foot of the
precipice. It is from here that the climb must be begun, but every
way up this face finally converges towards one spot, called the
'Split-Block.' Above is a vertical rock face, whilst below, four
hundred feet straight down, is the grassy band. For nine years all
attacks on the Ennerdale face of the Pillar Rock ended here. Only
in 1891 was it conquered. Two of the party were lowered down into a
savage-looking gully, from which they ascended to a spot some thirty
feet higher than the Split-Block, and by lowering a rope were able
to pull up the last man direct, who could not descend alone into the
gully. This sounds as if the last man had a comparatively easy climb.
But as the ascent is literally made through the air, unless an extra
rope is sent down to help him with a noose at the end which can be used
as a stirrup, he will arrive up above in a somewhat congested state.
Moreover, he must insist that the two ropes be worked by reasonable
people, otherwise he will be unfortunate enough to probably complete
his ascent in an inverted position, and be apt to lose faith in the use
of the Alpine rope.
It has already been pointed out that above the Split-Block is a
vertical precipice. Across this face about twenty-five feet above the
Split-Block there is another way up, which does away with the necessity
of descending into the Savage gully. It was first climbed by G. Solly.
But it is a most dangerous climb, for the leader must traverse across
this perpendicular face hanging on by his hands alone, and--here is
where the danger comes in--should he be unable to finish the climb, and
the worst piece which needs the expenditure of most energy is at the
very end, the leader is quite unable to return: there he hangs till he
can hold on no longer, then he drops! I myself have seen this happen.
The subsequent escape, not only of the leader but of the rest of the
party, was the most marvellous piece of luck I have ever seen on the
mountains, and even now makes me shudder when I think of it.
Collier has also varied this climb by getting up directly from the
end of the ledge beyond the Split-Block; but, after all, the original
manner employed by the first party in 1891 still remains the most
satisfactory method for overcoming the difficulty at this spot on the
Pillar climb. Above this, a gully leads to within two or three hundred
feet of the top, which can be reached by an interesting rock climb of
no great difficulty.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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