Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain RangesCollie, Norman
History
Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges
Collie, Norman
Himalaya Mountains; Mountaineering
This ascent of the Pillar Rock is certainly a remarkably fine one.
It is full of variety, and nearly the whole of it is on bare rock;
moreover, owing to the great steepness during the greater part of the
climb, it produces an exhilarating feeling of being perched in mid-air
most of the time. I should think nowadays it cannot be difficult to
find, but when we first tried it, a few scratches here and there on the
rock were our only guides.
Of the ghyll climbs, the one on the Screes already mentioned is well
worth trying. It was first climbed by Hastings, Robinson, and myself;
and I could not have been in better company. Robinson is _the_ great
authority on the hills of the Lake district; there is not a rock
on a mountain-side that he does not know. In sunshine or mist, in
daylight or at midnight, he will guide one safely over passes or down
precipitous mountain-sides. Every tree and every stone is a landmark to
him. It was on a perfect winter's morning, many years ago now, that we
started for the great gully in the Screes. Not a breath of air stirred;
hoar frost covered the ground; the trees were a mass of silver,
glittering in the morning sun. If from the road by Wastdale Hall the
rock face opposite be examined, it does not seem to be much broken, but
as one approaches the gullies deepen, and in reality are great gashes
penetrating far into the hillside.
The bottom of the gully is reached by ascending a mass of loose stones
which stretch almost down to the lake-side. In the gully there is no
great difficulty at first, but after a short time it branches off into
two, and it is the left-hand branch which has to be followed. The
stream was frozen, forming a beautiful cascade of ice, and we were
forced on to the buttress that divides the two gullies. Hastings was
sent on to prospect, whilst I had to back him up as far as possible.
With considerable trouble he managed to traverse back to the left into
the main gully, using infinitesimal knobs of rock for foot and hand
hold. We then followed, to find ourselves in a narrow cleft cut far
into the side of the hill. Perpendicular walls rose on both sides for
several hundred feet; above us stretched cascade after cascade of solid
ice, always at a very steep angle and sometimes perpendicular. Up these
we cut our way with our axes, sometimes being helped by making the
steps close to the walls, and using any small inequalities on the rock
face to steady us in our steps. At last we came to the final pitch.
Far above us at the top, the stream coming over a hanging ledge on
the right had frozen into masses of insecure icicles, some twenty or
more feet long, and thus prevented us from getting up on that side.
However, at the left-hand corner, at the top of the pitch, a rock
was wedged, overhanging the gully, but leaving underneath a cave of
considerable size. We managed to get as far up as the cave; there we
placed Robinson, in a position of great importance and responsibility,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account