Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain RangesCollie, Norman
History
Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges
Collie, Norman
Himalaya Mountains; Mountaineering
We found that below the great slab which formed the roof another
smaller one spanned the ghyll, forming the top of a great door to the
cave behind. Under this we passed, and clambered up on to the top of
it. Over our heads the great rock roof stretched some distance over the
ghyll. Our only chance was to traverse straight out to the right, over
the side of the ghyll, till one was no longer overshadowed by the roof
above, and then, if possible, climb up the face of rock, and traverse
back again above the obstacle into the ghyll once more.
This was easier to plan than to carry out; absolutely no handhold
could be found, but only one little projecting ledge jutting out
about a quarter of an inch and about a couple of inches long to stand
on; moreover, a lip of rock overhung this little ledge, making it
impossible to grip it satisfactorily with one's foot. Beyond this
there were six or eight feet of the nearly perpendicular rock wall to
traverse.
I was asked to try it. So, being highly pleased at being intrusted
with such delicate operations, I with great deliberation stretched out
my foot and tried to grip the little edge with the side nails of my
boot. Just as I was going to put my whole weight on to this right foot,
the nails, unable to hold on such a minute surface, gave way, and if
Hastings had not instantly with a mighty pull jerked me back, I should
have been swinging on the rope in mid-air. But we were determined not
to be beaten. Hastings's ice-axe was next brought into requisition,
and what followed I have no doubt will be severely criticised by more
orthodox mountaineers than myself: as it was my suggestion I must take
the blame. _I hacked a step in the rock!_[O] It was very hard work, but
that upper lip to the step had to go, and Hastings's ice-axe, being an
extraordinary one, performed its work admirably, and without damage
to anything else than the rock. I then was able to get a much firmer
foothold, and getting across this 'bad step,' clambered up the rock
till I reached a spot where a capital hitch could be got over a jutting
pin of rock, and the rest of the party followed. We then climbed out of
the ghyll on the left up some slabs of rock.
A few days later, Moss ghyll was again climbed by a party led by
J. Collier. They did not follow our track to the left after the
overhanging rock had been passed, but climbed straight up, using a
crack which looks almost impossible from below, thus adding an extra
piece of splendid climbing to this expedition.
That Collier did not follow our route was, I believe, entirely due
to Robinson, who, being so excessively delighted with having at last
conquered Moss ghyll, wrote a long account of it in the climbing book
at the inn, and being in this particular instance far more capable
of successfully climbing Moss ghyll than describing how it was done,
produced a tale where the points of the compass got, so to speak,
'snarked.'
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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