Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain RangesCollie, Norman
History
Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges
Collie, Norman
Himalaya Mountains; Mountaineering
for he had to hitch himself to a jammed boulder at the back, and hold
both Hastings and me steady on the other end of the rope. I placed
myself in the most secure position I could: my right foot occupied a
capacious hole cut in the bottom of the icicles, whilst my left was
far away on the other side of the gully, on a small but obliging shelf
in the rock face. In this interesting attitude, like the Colossus of
Rhodes, I spanned the gulf, and was anchored to the boulder as well
as to Robinson. Next, Hastings, with considerable agility, climbed on
to my shoulders; from that exalted position he could reach the edge
of the overhanging stone, underneath which Robinson was shivering,
and, after great exertions, was able finally to pull himself up on to
the top. Then Robinson and I followed on the rope. No doubt when the
gully is dry, with neither ice nor water in it, the climb would be much
modified. Above this pitch the climbing is easy as the gully opens out,
and the route to the top may be varied according to taste; some ways
are difficult and some are easy.
There is one more climb, the recollection of which always gives me
pleasure; indeed it was one of the most delightful I ever had in this
splendid land of rock scrambles. On the great precipice of Scawfell,
Moss ghyll is the most easterly of the three gullies which look towards
the Pikes.
When we attacked it, this ghyll had not been climbed, although
several parties had been up a considerable distance. The highest
point attained was just underneath a huge overhanging block of rock,
weighing hundreds of tons, which formed the roof of a great cave.
Robinson, Hastings, and I were anxious to see whether it was not
possible in some way to circumvent this objectionable block. We had
already carefully prospected the upper part of the ghyll from above,
finding that there was no difficulty once this obstacle was passed.
We therefore next attacked the ghyll from the bottom, hoping that we
should be able to discover a way where others had failed.
Starting from below we chose the easiest route up the rock face on the
right hand of the ghyll. Here the climbing chiefly consisted in getting
from one ledge to another, up slabs of rock. We soon, however, got
into the gully itself, where we found a perpendicular wall, up which
we had to climb, before reaching a ledge, which the first party of
exploration had called the 'Tennis Court' on account of its large size
when compared with those lower down. If it were to grow vigorously,
perhaps in its manhood it might become just large enough to run about
on, but when we first made its acquaintance it must have been in its
early childhood. From here we traversed back into the ghyll and got
underneath the great overhanging block.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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