Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain RangesCollie, Norman
History
Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges
Collie, Norman
Himalaya Mountains; Mountaineering
feet (or rather, the summit being cleft into three gashes, they got
into one of these, about 30 feet from the true top). It was not till
10 P.M. that they returned to their camp. The last peak they ascended
was one 19,000 feet on the Nepaul side of the Kang La. Thus ended this
most remarkable series of ascents, carried out often under the most
difficult circumstances. Graham, from his account of his travels, was
evidently not a man to talk about all the discomforts and hardships
of climbing at these altitudes, and this lack of information about
his feelings and sensations above 20,000 feet has been urged against
him as a proof that he never got to 24,000 feet at all. But any one
who will take the trouble to read his account of the ascent of Kabru,
cannot fail to admit that he must have climbed the peak lying on the
south-west of Kanchenjunga, viz. Kabru, for there is no other high peak
there which he could have ascended from his starting-point except
Kanchenjunga itself; moreover, unless he had climbed Kabru, neither he
nor Emil Boss could have seen Devadhunga nor the two enormous peaks
to the north-west, which they distinctly state must be higher than
Devadhunga. Now, if they climbed Kabru, they were at a height of 24,000
feet whether they had a barometer with them or not, for that is the
height determined by the Ordnance Survey. The heights reached in all
their other completed ascents are vouched for in the same way, for if
a mountain has been properly measured by triangulation, its height is
known with a greater degree of accuracy than can ever be obtained by
taking a barometer to the summit.
The next real mountaineering expedition after that of Graham was
in 1892, when Sir Martin Conway, together with Major Bruce, and M.
Zurbriggen as guide, explored a large part of the Mustagh range. In all
they made some sixteen ascents to heights of 16,000 feet and upwards,
the highest being Pioneer peak, 22,600 feet.
Arriving at Gilgit in May, when much winter snow still lay low down
on the mountains, they first explored the Bagrot nullah. Here they
ascended several glaciers and surveyed the country. But huge avalanches
continually falling entirely stopped any high climbing. They therefore
went into the Hunza Nagyr valley as far as Nagyr. In the meantime, as
the weather was bad, they investigated first the Samayar and afterwards
the Shallihuru glaciers. At the head of the former a pass was climbed,
the Daranshi saddle, 17,940 feet, and a peak called the Dasskaram
needle, 17,660 feet. They then returned to the Nagyr valley and reached
the foot of the great Hispar glacier, 10,320 feet. From here they
travelled to the Hispar pass, 17,650 feet, nearly forty miles, thence
down the Biafo glacier, another thirty miles. The Hispar pass is
therefore the longest snow pass traversed outside the Arctic regions.
About half way up the Hispar glacier Bruce left Conway and climbed over
the Nushik La, but joined him again later at Askole.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account