Of course, formerly these matters were better managed. In the 'Epistle Dedicatorie,' the author would at once begin with:--'To the most Noble Earle'--then with many apologies, all in the best English and most perfect taste, he, under the patronage of the aforesaid Noble Earle, would launch his venture on to the wide seas of publicity, or perhaps growing bolder, would put forth his wares with some such phrases as the following:--'And now, oh most ingenuous reader! can you find narrated many adventures, both on the high mountains of the earth, and in far countries but little known to the vulgar. Here are landscapes brought home, and so faithfully wrought, that you must confess, none but the best engravers could work them. Here, too, may'st thou find described diverse parts of thine own native land.' 'Choose that which pleaseth thee best. Not to detain thee longer, farewell; and when thou hast considered thy purchase, may'st thou say, that the price of it was but a charity to thyself, so not ill spent.' J. N. C. 16 CAMPDEN GROVE, LONDON, _24th March 1902_ NOTE Four of the chapters in this book have appeared before in the pages of the Scottish Mountaineering Club _Journal_ (A Chuilionn, Wastdale Head, A Reverie, and the Oromaniacal Quest). They all, however, have been partly rewritten, so the author trusts that he may be excused for offering to the public wares which are not entirely fresh. The Fragment from a Lost MS., and part of the chapter on the Lofoten Islands, were first printed in the _Alpine Journal_. The author also takes this opportunity of thanking Mr. Colin B. Phillip, first, for allowing photogravure reproductions to be made of two of his pictures (The Coolin and the Macgillicuddy's Reeks), and secondly, for the great trouble Mr. Phillip took in producing the three sketches of the Himalayan mountains which are to be found in the text. CONTENTS THE HIMALAYA-- CHAP. PAGE I. General History of Mountaineering in the Himalaya, 1 II. Our Journey out to Nanga Parbat, 25 III. The Rupal Nullah, 38 IV. First Journey to Diamirai Nullah and the Diamirai Pass, 57 V. Second Journey to Diamirai Nullah and Ascent to 21,000 feet, 70 VI. Ascent of the Diamirai Peak, 85 VII. Attempt to ascend Nanga Parbat, 104 VIII. The Indus Valley and Third Journey to Diamirai Nullah, 118