Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain RangesCollie, Norman
History
Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges
Collie, Norman
Himalaya Mountains; Mountaineering
On July 18 we set out early. Our route lay up the north side of the
Rupal nullah through the fields of the small hamlet of Rupal. The
morning light, the ripening crops waving in the sunshine, and the
fields backed by pine woods, glaciers, and snow-peaks, were very
beautiful. Unfortunately, as is usual in this part of the Rupal nullah,
we were unable to obtain any view of the great peak of Nanga Parbat,
our path taking us directly underneath it. Above the Rupal village
the Nanga Parbat glacier sweeps across the valley from underneath
the summit of the peak. This glacier, which owes its formation to
avalanches perpetually falling down the southern face of the mountain,
lies across the Rupal nullah almost at right angles, and forms a huge
embankment varying from 500 to 800 feet high. The route up the nullah
here turns off to the right, following a hollow which has been formed
between the mountain-side and the true left bank of the glacier, and
which we found well wooded, with a clear stream running down the
centre. In all the larger nullahs the same conditions were conspicuous:
usually for several miles up the valley above the end of the glacier a
subsidiary valley would exist, between the side moraine of the glacier
and the hill-side. These side moraines are often clothed with huge
pine-trees, whilst below, birches and willows, dwarf rhododendrons and
wild roses, cover the pasturages.
A climb of about 200 feet is necessary to take one on to the Nanga
Parbat glacier, which at this point is flush with the top of the
moraine, and, like so many others in this district, is littered with
stones of all sizes. Though much more uneven, it is similar to the
lower end of glaciers such as the Zmutt or the Miage. On the west side
of the glacier a steep descent must be made down on to the bottom of
the Rupal nullah. The floor of the valley here is carpeted with masses
of brushwood. As one proceeds up the nullah two more glaciers, similar
to the Nanga Parbat glacier, descend at a steep angle from the big
peak, but do not stretch quite across the valley, and can be passed by
walking round between their ends and the Rupal torrent. Just below the
Rupal glacier itself, a well-wooded stretch of pasture-land opens out,
studded with pines and other trees. Here it was that we saw, or thought
we saw, our first red bear; he was some way off, but the keen-eyed
shikari saw the bushes moving, and assured us that the movement was
due to a 'Balu,' and as there were traces of these animals in every
direction, probably the shikari was right.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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