Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges — John Shaqi
Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain RangesCollie, Norman
History
Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges
Collie, Norman
Himalaya Mountains; Mountaineering
Our destination, however, was the Diamirai nullah on the north-west
of Nanga Parbat, so we did not stay long, and winding away up the
hill-side, leaving the Lubar stream far below us on the left, we first
traversed a beautiful wood of birch-trees, and later got out on to the
bare hill-side.
Only two small ridges separate the Diamirai from the Lubar nullah,
but they are only small in comparison with their bigger neighbours;
consequently we did not reach the Diamirai nullah that day, but camped
on the hill-side by a small stream at 12,500 feet. A magnificent view
to the west showed all the country stretched out before us, a country
untravelled by any European, whilst skirting the horizon were some
splendid snow-peaks that lay near the head of the Swat valley beyond
Tangir and Darel. Next day, July 22, before coming to the Diamirai
nullah a herd of markhor was seen on the slope not far in front of us,
and by midday we camped on the south side of the huge Diamirai glacier
that fills up the centre of the nullah, having taken about five hours
from our last camp, and having come over some very rough ground. As
soon as the baggage was unpacked it was discovered that a pair of
steig-eisen had been left at the camp of the night before. One of the
goat-herds from Lubar had come with us, and he, being promised a rupee
should he bring them back, started at about two o'clock, running up the
hill-side like a goat, and by half-past six o'clock was back again with
them. Of course, these men having been trained in the hills are very
agile, and able to cover long distances, but considering the height
there was to climb, and the nature of the ground traversed, his was a
fine performance.
The camp (12,450 feet) was placed amongst some stunted pine-trees and
huge boulders that had rolled down the moraine, the glacier itself
being high (200 feet) above the floor of the valley at the side.
The view to the westward was much the same as we had seen the night
before, only with this difference: it was enclosed now between the two
sides of the Diamirai nullah, whilst the glacier fell away down the
valley in the foreground, towards the Indus, 10,000 feet below. Beyond,
range after range receded to the horizon, the furthest peaks probably
being more than one hundred miles distant. There the mountain thieves
of Darel, Tangir, and of the country west of Chilas live unmolested.
But eastward, at the head of the valley, towered Nanga Parbat, 14,000
feet above us, one mass of ice and snow, with rock ribs protruding
here and there, and vast overhanging glaciers ready at any moment to
pour down thousands of tons of ice on to the glaciers below. Lit up a
brilliant orange by the setting sun, and with the shadows on the lower
snows of a pale green, it certainly looked most beautiful, but up its
precipitous face a way had to be found, and at first sight it did not
look very promising.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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