Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain RangesCollie, Norman
History
Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges
Collie, Norman
Himalaya Mountains; Mountaineering
From this pass, on that perfectly clear afternoon, an unsurpassed
panorama was spread out before us. The Indus valley lay 14,000 feet
beneath us. Beyond stretched that almost unknown land below Chilas.
A hundred miles away were the snow peaks in the Swat country, marked
on the map as 18,563 feet and 19,395 feet high, standing out distinct
against the sky, whilst much further still, a little more to the right,
rose a vast snow peak nearly flat topped, or at least a ridge of peaks,
several thousand feet higher than any others. It was probably Tirach
Mir above Chitral, 25,426 feet and 24,343 feet high.
From the summit of the Butesharon pass we descended almost straight to
the camp, which had been pitched in the old spot, where we had been ten
days before.
During the next two days, August 3 and 4, we stopped in camp, and on
the 5th Bruce left us, going back to Abbottabad _via_ the Mazeno La,
the Kamri, and Kashmir. As we heard afterwards, it was anything but
a pleasant journey, for, probably owing to the exposure during that
night on Nanga Parbat, his complaint had been aggravated, and the
glands of his neck and face had become so swollen, that when he was met
by a friend on the Kamri he was unrecognisable, and for many months
afterwards was unable to wear a collar.
The day that Bruce left, Mummery and I with the Gurkhas started to
explore the upper end of the Diamirai glacier. We camped at the head of
the valley on the last grass on the northern side. Mummery and Ragobir
started at midnight for the western face of Nanga Parbat. During the
day they managed to reach the top of the second rib of rocks that lie
directly under the summit, a height of about 17,000 to 18,000 feet. In
the meantime I went to look at the Diama glacier between the Ganalo
peak, 21,650 feet, and Nanga Parbat, taking with me Goman Singh and
our Kashmir shikari. We climbed up the ridge that comes down from the
Ganalo peak to about 17,000 feet, but unfortunately the day was cloudy,
so I was unable satisfactorily to see the whole of the Diama valley,
and ascertain what chances we should have if we were to attack Nanga
Parbat from that side. However, on returning in the afternoon, I met
Mummery on the glacier. He was delighted with his exploration, for
there was, he said, magnificent climbing, and he had found a place on
the top of the second rib of rock where a tent might be pitched.
From July 13, the day we left the Kishnganga valley, it had been
gloriously fine; but next day, August 7, the weather broke with heavy
rain. Of course all our energies now were concentrated on the ascent
of Nanga Parbat. Mummery decided that we should push provisions and
supplies up the route that he and Ragobir had prospected; and he was
confident that once beyond the rock ribs and on the upper snow-fields
with some provisions and a silk tent, it would be very hard luck indeed
should we be driven back before we reached the summit.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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