During August 8 and 9, Mummery, Ragobir, Lor Khan (a Chilas shikari, who had come up from Gashut in the Bunar valley, and insisted on stopping with us), and I spent the time in carrying a waterproof bag of provisions and some odds and ends up the second rib of rock to a height of 17,150 feet. Here we left it in a safe place on the rocks. We also had considerable quantities of fuel taken up by coolies, to a camp 15,000 feet, at the bottom of the rocks under Nanga Parbat. Mummery was not wrong when he said it was magnificent climbing. The only climbing in the Alps I can compare it to is that on the Chamounix Aiguilles. In many places it was similar to that on the west side of the Aiguille du Plan from the Pèlerin glacier. Between the first and second ribs of rock the glacier was broken up into the wildest confusion, and it was only by passing a somewhat nasty couloir, down which occasional ice avalanches came, that the rocks of the second rib could be reached; thence to the top of the rib was difficult rock climbing over great slabs and towers of rock set at a very steep angle. I was extremely surprised that Lor Khan would go, but he did not seem in the least frightened, and with a little help from the rope climbed splendidly. As we returned that night to our camp the rains descended, and we arrived wet through; the weather was getting worse, and no serious attempt could be made for the present on Nanga Parbat. FOOTNOTES: [I] In Drew's _Jummoo and Kashmir Territories_, p. 370, also _Alpine Club Journal_, vol. xvii. p. 38, there is a sketch showing a mountain supposed to be K^{2}. Drew also has drawn K^{2} in No. 3 Isometric view of the mountains on the north-east of the Indus river. When Drew made these sketches the existence of the Mustagh tower, which rivals K^{2} in height, was unknown; moreover both from Turmik, and also from near Gilgit where the Isometric view No. 3 was taken, the Mustagh tower would be almost exactly in front of K^{2}. [J] There is a drawing of this peak on page 119 of Sir W. M. Conway's _Climbing in the Himalaya_. CHAPTER VI ASCENT OF THE DIAMIRAI PEAK 'Nothing that is mountainous is alien to us; we are addicted to all high places from Gaurisankar to Primrose Hill, wherever man has not forked out Nature. No doubt we find a particular fascination in the greatest and boldest inequalities of the earth's surface and the strange scenery of the ice and snow world; but we are attracted by any inequality, so long as it has not a railroad station or a restaurant on the top of it.' DOUGLAS FRESHFIELD.