Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain RangesCollie, Norman
History
Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges
Collie, Norman
Himalaya Mountains; Mountaineering
Lor Khan, who came behind me on the rope, seemed to be enjoying himself
immensely; of course he had never been in such a position before, but
these Chilas tribesmen are famous fellows. What Swiss peasant, whilst
making his first trial of the big snow peaks and the ice, would have
dared to follow in such a place, and that, too, with only skins soaked
through by the melting snow wrapped round his feet? Lor Khan never
hesitated for a moment; when I turned and pointed downwards he only
grinned, and looked as if he were in the habit of walking on ice slopes
every day of his life. We were soon all in a line across this ice
face, and whilst I was cutting one of Mummery's steps deeper to make
it safer for our Chilas shikari, I noticed that the rope was hanging
down in a great loop between Lor Khan and myself. At once I cried out
to him not to move again till it was absolutely tight between us, and
always to keep it so for the future. In the East we found that people
were accustomed to obey instantly without asking questions. What the
sahib said was law, at least so long as the sahib was there himself
to enforce obedience. Consequently as I moved onward the rope soon
became taut, and fortunately remained in that condition. Shortly after
this Mummery turned upwards and slightly to his right, cutting nearly
straight up the face, owing to some bad snow which barred our way. Just
as I began the ascent of this staircase I heard a startled exclamation
below. Instinctively I struck the pick of my axe deep into the ice, and
at the same moment the whole of the weight of the unfortunate Lor Khan
came on Ragobir and on me with the full force of a drop of some five
to six feet. He had slipped out of one of the steps, and hung with his
face to the glistening ice, whilst under him the thin coating of snow
peeled off the face of the slope in great and ever-widening masses,
gathering in volume as it plunged headlong down the mountain-side,
finally to disappear over the cliffs thousands of feet below. For the
time being I was fascinated by the descending avalanche, my whole mind
being occupied with but this one thought, that if Lor Khan began to
struggle and jerk at the rope I should without a doubt be pulled out of
my steps. My fears proved groundless. Although Lor Khan had lost his
footing he never lost either his head or his axe, and was just able to
reach with his hand one of the steps out of which he had fallen. After
Mummery had made himself quite firm above me I found myself, with the
help of Ragobir, who was last on the rope, just able to haul up our
Chilas shikari to a step which he had manfully cut for himself. It
was, however, a very unpleasant experience; if the fall had been ten
feet instead of six, I should never have been able to have borne the
strain, and Lor Khan would have fallen considerably more than that if
he had not been opportunely warned that he must keep the rope tight
between himself and me.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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