Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain RangesCollie, Norman
History
Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges
Collie, Norman
Himalaya Mountains; Mountaineering
Half an hour later we got off our ice slope and stepped almost on to
the first summit. All our difficulties were over. After ploughing
through some soft snow, at about half-past eleven o'clock we were
seated on the true top of our peak, the height of which by the
barometer turned out to be 19,000 feet.
We had climbed between 6000 and 7000 feet, and Mummery had led the
whole way. The last 3000 feet had been very severe, for at first most
of the steps had to be laboriously broken, and later we had to win
our way by the use of the axe. But Mummery was perfectly fresh and
could have gone on for hours, the diminished pressure (fifteen inches
of mercury) having apparently no effect on him; neither was Ragobir
any the worse for his climb; Lor Khan and I had slight headaches, but
otherwise were quite fit for more. As we sat on the top enveloped in
mist, Mummery and I debated afresh the old question, How should we
feel if we ever ascended to 26,000 feet? Mummery reasoned that it
would chiefly depend on our state of training at the time. Had I not
been dreadfully ill at 18,000 feet crossing the Mazeno La, whilst here
we were all right at 19,000 feet? Had we not ascended our last 3000
feet with hardly a rest and at exactly the same pace as if we had been
climbing in the Alps? As it always takes two to argue, I perforce had
to try my best as the opposition. At once I discovered that my headache
was by no means a negligible quantity, and was therefore an excellent
test for abnormal altitudes. Probably also mountain-sickness was a
disease which lurked in the higher mountains and was ready at any
moment to rush on and seize its prey. Luckily for us the particular
bacillus was not just then in the surrounding atmosphere, consequently
we had not been inoculated, yet perhaps should we on some future
occasion go to 21,000 to 22,000 feet, we might be suddenly overwhelmed.
Then I quoted an article I had read somewhere about paralysis and
derangement of nerve-centres in the spinal column being the fate of all
who insist on energetic action when the barometer stands at thirteen
inches. It was no good, Mummery only laughed at me; and at this moment
the mist clearing for a short space to the southward, we were soon far
more interested with the view of the Thosho and Rupal peaks. The summit
we were on fell away on the south directly under our feet in a series
of rock precipices. We started on our homeward journey at about one
o'clock without catching a single glimpse of Nanga Parbat. The descent
of the steep ice slopes of our upward route was far too dangerous to
attempt, so we decided on a rock ridge to the westward which we hoped
would lead us down on the pass that Hastings had crossed earlier in the
day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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