Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain RangesCollie, Norman
History
Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges
Collie, Norman
Himalaya Mountains; Mountaineering
From the mountaineer's point of view, little has been accomplished
amongst the Himalaya, and of the thousands of peaks of 20,000
feet and upwards hardly twenty have been climbed. The properly
equipped expeditions made to these mountains merely for the sport of
mountaineering may be said to be less than half a dozen. Of course
the officers in charge of the survey department have done invaluable
work, which, however, often had to be carried out by men unacquainted
(from a purely climbing point of view) with the higher developments of
mountain craft. To this, however, there are exceptions, notably Mr. W.
H. Johnson, who worked on the Karakoram range.
To omit work done by the earlier travellers, the first prominent piece
of mountaineering seems to have been achieved by Captain Gerard
in the Spiti district. In the year 1818 he attempted the ascent of
Leo Porgyul, but was unsuccessful after reaching a height of 19,400
feet (trigonometrically surveyed). Ten years later he made the first
successful ascent of a mountain (unnamed) of 20,400 feet. Speaking
of his wanderings in 1817-21, he says: 'I have visited thirty-seven
places at different times between 14,000 and 19,400 feet, and thirteen
of my camps were upwards of 15,000 feet.' During the years 1848-49-50
Sir Joseph Hooker made his famous journeys into the Himalaya from
Darjeeling through Sikkim. Obtaining leave to travel in East Nepaul,
he traversed a district that since then has been entirely closed to
Europeans. By travelling to the westward of Darjeeling he crossed
into Nepaul, explored the Tambur river as far as Wallanchoon, whence
he ascended to the head of a snow pass, 16,756 feet, leading over
to the valley of the Arun river, which rises far away northward of
Kanchenjunga. On the pass he experienced his first attack of mountain
sickness, suffering from headache, giddiness, and lassitude. At this
point he was probably nearer to Devadhunga[C] (Mount Everest) than any
European has ever been, the mountain being only fifty miles away. From
the summit of another pass in East Nepaul, the Choonjerma pass, 16,000
feet, he no doubt saw Devadhunga. From here he returned to Sikkim, and
travelled to Mon Lepcha, immediately at the south-west of Kanchenjunga.
During the next year he visited the passes on the north-east of
Kanchenjunga leading into Tibet and ascended three of them, the Kongra
Lama pass, 15,745 feet; the Tunkra pass, 16,083 feet; and the Donkia
pass, 18,500 feet. From Bhomtso, 18,590 feet, the highest and most
northerly point reached by him, a magnificent view to the northward
into Tibet was obtained; and Dr. Hooker mentions having seen from this
point two immense mountains over one hundred miles distant to the north
of Nepaul. It was during his return to Darjeeling that he and Dr.
Campbell were made prisoners by the Raja of Sikkim.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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