Clothing and Health: An Elementary Textbook of Home Making — John Shaqi
Clothing and Health: An Elementary Textbook of Home MakingKinne, Helen
Science
Clothing and Health: An Elementary Textbook of Home Making
Kinne, Helen
Clothing and dress; Sewing
1. _Cut out._ Follow pattern, placing economically. Allow extra
for hem, if necessary, and one inch for receiving tuck under which
the ruffle will be placed. Fold pieces left over; they will be
needed.
2. _Pin and baste gores._ Be careful to match notches--front, then
side gore at each side, then back gore at each side of side gore,
five in all. Pin from top down. Baste from bottom up with bias
edge towards worker. Holding thus prevents stretching.
3. _Make French seams by machine._
4. _Make hem on bottom._ Baste a two or three inch hem as planned.
Stitch. Sometimes dust ruffles of the same cloth or of lawn are
placed on the bottom of the skirt instead of a hem. They are made
about 3 or 4 inches wide and cut across warp of cloth. The skirt
is then cut 3 or 4 inches shorter, and the ruffle makes the length
by being added at bottom under a tuck ⅜-inch wide. This ruffle has
½-inch hem on the bottom edge and is sewed to skirt with a seam on
the right side. The tuck is made directly above it and is stitched
flat to cover the raw edges. A hem at the bottom is enough, and is
suitable for young girls, when a ruffle is to be added above for
decoration and fullness.
5. _Prepare tuck on skirt for ruffle._ Measure from bottom of
skirt depth of ruffle. At that point make a tuck ⅜-inch deep.
Baste and stitch. This must be same distance from the bottom of
skirt all the way around, and on the right side of skirt. It
is not always necessary to use a tuck. A bias band can be used
instead or a beading to cover the raw edges of the ruffle.
6. _Prepare ruffle._ This may be of lawn with edge hemmed and
decorated with featherstitch, or it may be of Hamburg edging or
of same material with scalloped edge (see page 142). A ruffle of
the same material with a simple ½-inch hem may also be used. The
width of ruffle is half as full again as the width of skirt. The
depth can be 5-10 inches as desired. Divide ruffle in quarters,
and gather.
7. _To join ruffle to skirt._ Divide skirt in quarters. Pin
quartered ruffle in place. Draw up gathering threads to fit skirt.
Wind thread around pins to hold. Baste. If a receiving tuck has
been made, turn it down over the raw edge of ruffle and baste and
stitch on very edge of tuck. If a tuck has not been made, baste
over the raw edges of ruffle a band of finishing braid or beading
or a bias strip of the same cloth as the skirt, ⅜-inch wide;
stitch on both edges.
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