New York (State) -- History -- Colonial period, ca. 1600-1775; New York (State) -- Social life and customs -- To 1775
“About twelve o’clock set a little yeast to rise, so as to be ready
at five P. M. to mix with the following ingredients: 3³⁄₄ pounds of
flour, 1 pound of sugar, ¹⁄₂ pound of butter and lard mixed, 1¹⁄₂
pints of milk, 6 eggs, 1 pint raised yeast. Warm the butter, sugar
and milk together, grate a nutmeg in the flour, add eggs last. Place
in a warm place to rise. If quite light at bedtime, work them down by
pressing with the hand. At nine next morning make into small balls
with the hand, and place in the centre of each a bit of raisin,
citron, and apple chopped fine. Lay on a well-floured pie-board and
allow them to rise again. They are frequently ready to boil at two
o’clock. In removing them from the board use a knife, well-floured,
and just give them a little roll with the hand to make them round.
Have the fat boiling, and boil each one five minutes. When cool roll
in sifted sugar.”
The name means literally oil-cakes, and they were originally boiled
or fried in oil. They were called “melting,” and I am sure from this
description of the process of manufacture they were delicate enough to
deserve the appellation. The Hessian officers in Revolutionary times
give eloquent approval of these “rich batter-cakes.”
Tea-cakes which were made both in New England and New York were what
Mrs. Vanderbilt calls “izer-cookies.” They were so termed from the
Dutch word _izer_, or _yser_, meaning iron; for they were baked in
long-handled irons called wafer-irons, which often had the initials of
the owners impressed in the metal, which impression of course rendered
the letters in relief on the cakes. Often a date was also stamped
on the irons. These wafer-irons sometimes formed part of a wedding
outfit, having the initials of the bride and groom intertwined. The
cakes were also called split-cakes because, thin as they were, often
they were split and buttered before being eaten. Other wafer-cakes
were called _oblyen_. Cinnamon-cakes resembled a delicate jumble with
powdered cinnamon sprinkled on top. Puffards, or _puffertjes_, were
eaten hot with powdered cinnamon and sugar, and were baked in a special
pan, termed a puffet-pan. Wonders were flavored with orange peel and
boiled in lard. Pork-cakes, made of chopped pork with spices, almonds,
currants, raisins, and flavored with brandy, were a rich cake. The
famous Schuyler wedding cake had among other ingredients, twelve dozen
eggs, forty-eight pounds of raisins, twenty-four pounds of currants,
four quarts of brandy, a quart of rum. This was mixed in a wash-tub.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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