New York (State) -- History -- Colonial period, ca. 1600-1775; New York (State) -- Social life and customs -- To 1775
A leading man of New Amsterdam, a burgomaster, had at the time of his
death, near the end of Dutch rule, this plentiful number of substantial
garments: a cloth coat with silver buttons, a stuff coat, cloth
breeches, a cloth coat with gimp buttons, a black cloth coat, a silk
coat, breeches and doublet, a silver cloth breeches and doublet, a
velvet waistcoat with silver lace, a buff coat with silk sleeves, three
“gross-green” cloaks, several old suits of clothes, linen, hosiery,
silver-buckled shoes, an ivory-headed cane, and a hat. One hat may
seem very little with so many other garments; but the real beaver hats
of those days were so substantial, so well-made, so truly worthy an
article of attire, that they could be constantly worn and yet last for
years. They were costly; some were worth several pounds apiece.
Gayer masculine garments are told of in other inventories: green silk
breeches flowered with silver and gold, silver gauze breeches, yellow
fringed gloves, lacquered hats, laced shirts and neck-cloths, and
(towards the end of the century, and nearly through the eighteenth
century) a vast variety of wigs. For over a hundred years these
unnatural abominations, which bore no pretence of resembling the human
hair, often in grotesque, clumsy, cumbersome shapes, bearing equally
fantastic names, and made of various indifferent and coarse materials,
loaded the heads and lightened the pockets of our ancestors. I am glad
to note that they were taxed by the government of the province of New
York. The barber and wig-maker soon became a very important personage
in a community so given over to costly modes of dressing the head.
Advertisements in the newspapers show the various kinds of wigs worn
in the middle of the eighteenth century. From the “New York Gazette”
of May 9, 1737, we learn of a thief’s stealing “one gray Hair Wig,
one Horse hair wig not the worse for wearing, one Pale Hair Wig, not
worn five times, marked V. S. E., one brown Natural wig, One old wig
of goat’s hair put in buckle.” Buckle meant to curl; and derivatively
a wig was in buckle when it was rolled on papers for curling. Other
advertisements tell of “Perukes, Tets, and Fox-tails after the
Genteelest Fashion. Ladies’ Tets and wigs in perfect imitation of
their own hair.” Other curious notices are of “Orange Butter” for
“Gentlewomen to comb up their hair with.”
This use of orange butter as a pomatum was certainly unique; it was
really a Dutch marmalade. I read in my “Closet of Rarities,” dated
1706:--
“The Dutch Way to make Orange-butter. Take new cream two gallons, beat
it up to a thicknesse, then add half a pint of orange-flower-water,
and as much red wine, and so being become the thicknesse of butter it
has both the colour and smell of an orange.”
A very characteristic and eye-catching advertisement was this from the
“New York Gazette” of May 21, 1750:--
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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