Colter's Hell and Jackson's Hole: The Fur Trappers' Exploration of the Yellowstone and Grand Teton Park RegionMattes, Merrill J.
History
Colter's Hell and Jackson's Hole: The Fur Trappers' Exploration of the Yellowstone and Grand Teton Park Region
Mattes, Merrill J.
Grand Teton National Park (Wyo.); Yellowstone National Park
There was a Colter’s Hell in the fur trappers lexicon, which referred
specifically to an ancient thermal area bordering the Shoshone River
just west of present Cody, Wyoming. The term was never applied
historically to the thermal zone within Yellowstone Park itself. It was
Hiram M. Chittenden, the esteemed engineer and historian who first
suggested this usage in 1895 with the original edition of his book,
Yellowstone National Park.
The earliest published reference to “Colter’s Hell” is in Washington
Irving’s version of Capt. Benjamin L. E. Bonneville’s journal narrating
events from 1832 to 1835. However, note here that this “volcanic tract”
with its “gloomy terrors, its hidden fires, smoking pits, noxious
streams and the all-pervading ‘smell of brimstone’” was located,
according to Irving, not on the headwaters of the Yellowstone but on the
Shoshone or “the Stinking River” or “the Stinkingwater,” originally
named on the Clark Map. It was Chittenden in 1895 and not Irving in 1837
who started the legend by asserting vaguely that “the region of ...
[Colter’s] adventures was long derisively known as ‘Colter’s Hell,’”
implying that by “region” he meant Yellowstone Park, the subject of his
book. He does not accuse Bonneville or Irving of error, perforce
conceding that “this name early came to be restricted to the locality
where Colter discovered the tar spring on the Stinkingwater,” but he
hopefully guesses that “Colter’s description, so well summed up by
Irving ... undoubtedly referred in large part to what he saw in the
Yellowstone and Snake River Valleys.” This is where the misconception
got started.
It is significant that no historian prior to Chittenden entertained this
misconception. For example, in 1890 Hubert H. Bancroft wrote: “Far east
of ... [the volcanic basins on the Upper Madison], on the Stinkingwater
Fork ... is Colter’s Hell, where similar phenomenon is exhibited on a
lesser scale.” It is further significant that in his monumental American
Fur Trade of the Far West, the first edition of which appeared in 1902,
seven years after the first edition of Yellowstone, Chittenden wrote
that Colter was “the first to pass through the singular region which has
since become known throughout the world as the Yellowstone Wonderland.
He also saw the immense tar spring at the forks of Stinkingwater River,
a spot which came to bear the name of Colter’s Hell.” This is his only
reference here to the term, which is a clear if tacit admission that he
was in error in the first instance to create the impression that it ever
applied contemporaneously to Yellowstone Park. But the impression once
created would not down. Like Aladdin’s wonderful lamp, the jinni was out
of the bottle, and the poetic version of “Colter’s Hell” has become a
stock item in Western literature.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account