Discharged from our escort duty we boarded a passenger train heading for
Baghdad and enjoyed the luxury of slatted wooden seats. I was quite
excited with the anticipation of what lay ahead and could hardly wait to
see more of the mystic land of the Caliphs. The train drew into Baghdad
and as it slowed we could see more of the city, fine buildings mixed
with mud brick homes, the Ishtar Gate and the minarets of mosques, the
strange clothes, music discordant to my ears, porters bent double with
unbelievable loads on their backs and the smells. At that time I had to
be content with a passing impression because I was bound for Al
Musayyib, to No.5 Advanced Base Workshops. That designation in the
middle of Iraq puzzled me and it was not until many years after the war
that I discovered the reason for it and the reason for my being there.
The workshops were some 40 miles south of Baghdad and a mile or so from
the Arab town; the town was out of bounds to us but a metalled road from
there passed between our camp and the workshops; we only ever saw
military traffic on it. Both camp and workshop compound were separately
surrounded with barbed wire, three coil dannert and apron was the
official name for it. Individual shops were scattered within the
compound, seemingly haphazardly and they contained equipment for which
any contemporary British engineering firm would kill for.
Accommodation within the camp consisted of huts similar in design to
Nissen huts but were built of local materials with low brick walls and
pre-cast arches supporting curved roofs of straw reinforced baked
mud. The floors were of course bare earth. Outside the end doors of
each hut stood a large urn of unglazed earthenware, a chatty, kept full
of water laced with salt to make sure we took our daily dose to ward off
heat exhaustion. The water was cooled by the evaporation of the small
quantity of water that seeped through to the outside of the chatty and
it was very pleasant to drink. Non-potable water for ablutions and
laundry was brought in through underground pipes from a source unknown
to me, the river Euphrates perhaps, anyway the pipes could not have been
buried very far beneath the surface because in the summer the water was
quite hot. Again, using local materials, the screens around the
unroofed showers and latrines were made of woven palm leaves.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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