Opportunities sometimes allowed us to do something out of the ordinary
and two of us asked if we could spend our two weeks leave in Teheran, in
Iran. Strangely enough permission was granted and we set off in the
evening crossing into Iran at Ahwaz. The journey took about 20 hours
passing through Dizful, Khorramabad, Arak and Qum and countless numbers
of tunnels through the mountain ranges before reaching Teheran. It was
an interesting trip carried out in upholstered luxury. We were billeted
in an army camp but were left to our own devices day and night. After
Shaiba Teheran was a lively bustling city; we did some window shopping
looking at the Russian made Leica cameras that were much cheaper than
but inferior to those made in Germany. There was a plethora of uniforms
about of various branches of various forces of various countries not
counting the wonderful uniforms of the cinema doormen -- quite
confusing; I was saluted several times by Russian soldiers who were
probably just as uncertain as I was.
I was caught out by a British major when I failed to salute him; he
asked me where I was stationed and when I answered "Shaiba." he
enquired, "don't they salute officers there now? They used to when I
was Provost Marshal." I had not worn my greatcoat for ages when I was
in Shaiba and had not polished the brass but it was much colder in
Teheran and I was now wearing it. He eyed the green brass buttons of my
greatcoat with disapproval but let me off with a warning as he realised
that I was on leave from that God-forsaken spot; I think he felt sorry
for me.
We went to a cinema to see Bambi which I had seen before in England but
this was different; the sound track was in English with French
sub-titles and to one side a separate screen about seven feet square
carried the dialogue in Farsi. It was just as well that I had seen it
before because those who could read explained the film to those who
could not and I could hardly hear the sound track for the constant
babble.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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