Compared to Shaiba the air was cool and crisp and my friend who was a
bit of an amateur astronomer said that under the right conditions the
planet Mercury could be seen with the naked eye and sure enough under a
cloudless sky just after sunset we saw it quite close to the sun's edge;
I've often looked for it but I've never seen it since. The reason for
our choosing Teheran as a vacation centre was that another couple of
members of our group had gone there not long before and spoke of it
approvingly; they had stayed a little longer than we and had climbed, or
partially climbed, Mount Demavend that was about 19,000 feet high. We
had no desire to copy them but spent the best part of a day walking
northwards from Teheran seeing the wide open spaces apparently
uninhabited apart from the occasional local who viewed us with interest
and suspicion as to our intent. In the city one of the main sights was
the railway station, an architectural gem that had been built earlier by
the Germans. Being a carpet weaving centre there were all shapes,
sizes, colours and patterns on display and also for sale, many laid out
on the sidewalks to be walked upon by passers-by which surprised us. I
wasn't too certain about the sanitary arrangements but on many streets I
saw open gutters running between the sidewalk and the road and there
seemed to be ample water run-off from the northern highland. All good
things have to come to an end and after two weeks we caught the train
back to Ahwaz and thence to Shaiba.
For entertainment we had radio programs relayed from Britain but we also
picked up programs emanating from Ahwaz which was under American
control. Rum and Coca Cola sung by The Andrews Sisters was pounded out
at least three times daily. Occasionally boxing was arranged between
ourselves and the Americans to what we would call amateur rules, three
three-minute rounds with a two-minute break between rounds, no referee
in the ring but with the contests bring controlled verbally by an
officer at ringside. The styles of the two countries differed and we
considered ourselves lucky if we won three out of the ten bouts.
Naturally we cheered for our own boxers but were appreciative of any
American who adopted the more upright stance rather than the American
crouch. There were frequent cinema shows and sometimes ENSA parties
visited us on their tours of army bases; twice I recall going to shows
given by touring Russian groups; though the language was unintelligible
to most of us the types of turns given did not require any great
understanding of Russian and their performances were first class. I
usually went along fairly early to grab a reasonable seat and was
frequently annoyed when I was dispossessed by late arriving superiors;
on such occasions I sometimes returned to my billet to read a book or to
go to sleep; I was fairly content in my own company.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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