Condiments, Spices and FlavorsGreen, Mary Elizabeth
History
Condiments, Spices and Flavors
Green, Mary Elizabeth
Spices
Various appetizing mixtures intended to give relish to meats, fish and
soups, and composed of vegetables, fruits and divers spices, are known
as sauces. “Roots, herbs, vine fruits and salad-flowers, they dish up
various ways and find them a very delicious sauce to their meats, both
roasted and boiled, fresh and salt.” No other sauce made compares with
genuine East Indian chutney. It is a thick sauce, made from the mango
apple, chilies, spices, lemon juice, raisins, figs, salt and sugar.
Those most celebrated are the Bengal Club, Terhoot, Sweet Lucknow and a
number of club chutneys. Trinidad chutney is particularly fine. Ceylon
chutney is often slightly flavored with garlic. Another kind is “mango
chutney, a characteristic Singalese condiment, among the ingredients of
which are fresh, grated cocoanut and chilies carefully brayed together
in a mortar. This chutney is of a rich roseate hue; and after eating it
with his prawn curry the epicure feels like the Grand Turk.”
Carachi is a sauce little known in America, although, as it is much
liked abroad, I give a recipe for its making, which sufficiently
defines its character: one head of garlic, one dessert spoonful of
cayenne pepper, three table spoonsful each, of soy, mushroom ketchup,
walnut pickle, and mango pickle, five anchovies and a pint of vinegar.
Cassareep consists of the inspissated juice of the root of the bitter
cassava, flavored with various spices. From the cassava, or manioc,
is prepared tapioca and also cassava flour of which bread is made. The
root is poisonous because of the prussic acid contained, this, however,
being dissipated by heat. After the juice is extracted, it is boiled
down to the color and consistency of molasses, after which spices are
added. It is the basis of Worcestershire and many other sauces and is
valuable in the flavoring of soups and ragouts. It is largely exported
from British Guiana and is used throughout the tropics.
Worcestershire sauce is one of the commonest of table condiments. It
is prepared from cassareep and varying proportions of spices, garlic,
peppers, and lime-juice, according to the tastes of the various houses
manufacturing it.
Both lime-juice and Devonshire sauces are similar in preparation and
flavor to Worcestershire, the former being quite acid, owing to the
greater proportion of lime-juice used.
Ketchup is a sauce made variously from tomatoes, mushrooms, walnuts,
oysters, etc. It should be semi-fluid, about the consistency of a good
purée and, although spices may be added, the original flavor of the
basic ingredients must always be preserved. Color is one desideratum.
In tomato ketchup the sauce is always made of the ripe tomato fruit,
although, as the color is sometimes produced artificially, the only
safeguard lies in purchasing of reliable manufacturers. The tomato
ketchup is a typical American sauce, corresponding in our dietary with
the mushroom ketchup of the English.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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