Condiments, Spices and FlavorsGreen, Mary Elizabeth
History
Condiments, Spices and Flavors
Green, Mary Elizabeth
Spices
Pepper, with cinnamon, salt and incense, was one of the staple
commodities which anciently passed over the caravan routes between
Venice and India. At that time its price was extremely high and,
according to E. M. Holmes, rents were frequently paid in this article
as late as the middle ages. After the sack of Rome by the barbarians
one of the articles of tribute demanded by Alaric was a thousand pounds
of pepper. As late as the eighteenth century the pepper trade was
confined to the Portuguese. In recent years it has become one of the
cheapest of our spices.
[Illustration: Round Pepper.]
The pepper plant is a vine, of the order _piperaceæ_, which grows
wild in China, is also indigenous to Malabar and other islands of
the East Indies, and has been introduced into the West Indies. The
plants require a rich moist soil, bearing after the fourth year and
continuing fruitful for from eight to fourteen years. The most famous
of the pepper islands are the Penang, which furnish more than half
the amount produced by the entire East Indies. Only the berries of
the pepper plant are valuable and these, being gathered before fully
developed, have a wrinkled appearance when dried. The berries used for
white pepper are decorticated either in the islands or in London and
reach the United States ready for grinding. The finest grade passes
through more than twenty different operations before it is considered
marketable.
Black pepper differs from the white in the leaving on of the hull,
which is black and contains the acrid principles of the flavor. Hence,
white pepper is less pungent and fully as fine in flavor as the black.
Shot pepper consists of the finest berries, those richest in oil. It is
selected by throwing a quantity of the berries in water. Those which
sink are collected, labeled, and sold as shot pepper.
Long pepper, referred to by the Greeks as _piperi macron_, is the
unripe fruit of a species of pepper, an inch or more in length and and
shaped like a spike. The flavor is similar to that of ordinary black
pepper. African pepper is another variety. Those best known to the
western markets are Penang, Tellicherry and Malabar.
Cumin or cummin is a small herbaceous plant, native to Egypt and very
early cultivated in the Mediterranean countries. It is now grown in
India, Sicily and Malta, the seeds only being valuable. These contain
a large proportion of essential oil which gives them an aromatic but
acrid flavor. They are not now used in cookery though receipts are
still extant which prove them to have once been considered a valuable
culinary spice. The Latin poets relate that the ancients used cumin
seeds medicinally, their effect being to produce languor. They are
referred to in Isaiah as being “beaten out with a rod” and also in the
Mosaic law regarding tithes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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