All these things you can see from Cong by easy pleasant excursions, to
be combined if you so choose with fishing in waters where trout if
caught are worth the catching; and when you have had your fill of Cong,
the steamer will take you to Galway, down that long narrow lake with
rick-shaped Benlevi steep above Cong and Leckavrea making a cliff on
the southwest. To the east all is flat plain, the long level tract of
limestone which stretches out to the Shannon, and which on this side of
Tuam is for the most part stone and nothing else. Only one height rises
on that hand--your left as you travel to Galway; it is the conical hill
of Knockmagh, the greatest mount of fairies in all Ireland; crowned
with a cairn, of course--Carn Ceasair--under which sleeps, they say,
Ceasair, chieftainess of the first invasion that came to Ireland, just
forty days before the Flood. There are lesser cairns on its sides, in
which recent exploration has discovered funeral cists, flag covered,
holding in them bones and even an urn of "bodkin-pencilled" clay.
Anyone who cares to see what is not in the common run of tourist
visitation should make his way from Cong to Tuam, by Headford, where is
the splendid ruin of Ross Errilly, a famous monastery of the
Franciscans, standing almost intact, though unroofed, and stripped of
its ornamentation by the Cromwellian soldiers. The friars clung to this
abode till 1753, though six several times expelled, returning under the
protection of Lord Clanricarde; since in those days Clanricarde, head
of the Burkes in Connaught, was a name of shelter for the native Irish,
among whom his de Burgo stock had been so long and so fully
naturalized. The famous rallying song of 1848, "The West Awake", tells
how "Glory guards Clanricarde's grave", and in truth, with scarcely an
exception, not a Clanricarde of them all but was loved by the people.
And if the name that was once so kindly, bears a very different sound
to-day, Connaught has its own way of accounting for the change.
It is worth climbing Knockmagh to see across that spreading plain,
crossed and chequered with the stone walls which endear Galway to all
who like big jumping in the foxhunt: for the mountains of Connemara
show westward but Croaghpatrick and Nephin away north. Under Knockmagh
beside the road is the church of Donagh Patrick, marking the western
point of St. Patrick's missionary journey here. But his favourite
disciple Benen, or Benignus, had a monastery near Tuam at Kilbannon,
where stands the stump of a round tower, and pushed his journeyings
even to Aran where monuments bear his name.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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