The port is hardly less depressing. Admirable as a shelter in the days
of small vessels, it is unfit for these days when even coasting traffic
comes in ships of three thousand tons. It is true they have a dock
hollowed out of rock and holding eighteen foot of water; but the Board
of Works (a department of Dublin Castle) which executed the work at a
cost of forty thousand pounds omitted to notice that there was only
twelve foot of water at the entrance: and the accommodation is thought
as useful as a second storey with no stair to it. Nearly all the
shipping consists in fishing boats: many trawlers, but most numerous of
all, the little hookers worked by the fishermen who live across the
river in the very odd community called the Claddagh. These people till
recently had a "king" of their own (just as happens on the small
islands of the coast) and they lived their own life, and indeed still
live it, almost wholly distinct from the regular townsfolk. Their
thatched cottages scattered in a huddled group without streets or plan
of any kind make a curious feature of the place; but it is a curiosity
rather than a charm.
In the main street of the town lives a jeweller who manufactures still
the Claddagh ring which these folk and the Aran people use for marriage
or betrothal: joined hands surmounted by a crowned heart make an emblem
which needs no posy to expound it. You can get in Galway also another
local object which is worth having, the woman's strong cloak of red or
blue flannel with hood to shelter the head in the stormiest of weather.
Perhaps one of the most interesting sights in the place--at least to
the angler--is to be seen from the bridge which spans the main river
below the broad weir which holds up water for the sluices and mill
powers. Here is a long, swift shallow which in summer becomes crowded
with salmon to a degree almost incredible; the fish lie under you
there, some twenty feet from your eyes, their sides touching as the
dark backs sway in the water, so that at the first glimpse one seems to
look into a mass of weed. Anglers can be seen fishing there close
together, and many hundreds of fish are killed yearly from the bank. It
was here that one enthusiast achieved a fisherman's euthanasia, for he
dropped dead suddenly in the very act of playing a fish. The papers
gave long accounts of the sad event, recalling the dead man's
achievements and qualities as sportsman and citizen; then added a final
paragraph--
"Our readers will be glad to learn that the rod which Mr. ----
dropped was immediately taken up by our esteemed townsman Mr. ----
who found the fish still on, and after ten minutes' play, succeeded
in landing it--a fine clean-run salmon of fifteen pounds."
What more was needed for epitaph? The soul of "Mr. ----" had departed
under the most satisfactory auspices.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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