All these, I confess, seem to me to belong to the dusty domain of
archæologists; but Maeve figures in a story which before long may be as
well known as the epic of the Nibelungs, so strong is the grip which
Gaelic mythology begins to take upon the imagination of the world--an
imagination guided by Irish-born poets, not the least of whom has his
native place here in Sligo. William Butler Yeats was born and nurtured
here, and these names and these hills and rivers coloured his earliest
poetry.
From Maeve's cairn--it is an easy climb--you can see north of you to
all the mountains of West Donegal, from Barnesmore to Slieve League and
Glen Head: south and west you can see the heights of Mayo, Nephin
farthest inland, then Croaghpatrick--and stretching away far out to the
western sea, the long cliffy shore of Erris, ending up with those
peaked rocks, the Stags of Broadhaven.
But more famous by far than Knocknarea is the greater mountain,
flat-topped Benbulben, which lies north of the lake and the town. And
for those who would know the beauties of this county, as I unhappily do
not know them, the place of all places to visit is the road which,
following the coast, turns round the shoulder of Benbulben, and so
running inwards along the south shore of Donegal Bay, brings you
ultimately to the pleasant watering-place of Bundoran. And, since I
must write of what I know, let me limit myself to two of the historic
associations of that drive.
One of these memories is legendary. In the cycle of stories which deal
with the deeds of Finn MacCool and the Fianna of Ireland, it is told
how Finn, old and subtle and strong, went to Tara to be married to the
High King's daughter; but she, the Lady Gránia, cast eyes of desire on
one of the Fianna, Diarmuid of the curling dusky hair and the berry-red
cheeks, who was reputed for the best lover of women in all the world:
and, drugging the guest cup, Gránia fled with Diarmuid, till after many
escapes and wanderings, the two made their peace with Finn and with the
High King Cormac MacArt, and settled down to dwell on the round hill of
Keshcorran in County Sligo. Long years they lived together, and
Diarmuid was content, but Gránia, the king's daughter, thought her
house slighted because the two greatest men in Ireland, Finn MacCool
and Cormac MacArt, had never entered its door. "They are enemies to
me," said Diarmuid. "Make a feast and win their friendship," said
Gránia, and it was agreed; so Cormac with his counsellors and Finn with
his Fianna came and hunted for many days about Keshcorran and feasted
for many nights in Rath Grainne. But at last a day came when they were
hunting, and omens had warned Diarmuid to stay back from the chase: but
he set them aside, and followed the hunt to the top of Benbulben and
there was Finn standing alone. "It is the wild boar of Benbulben they
are hunting," said Finn, "and it is an enchanted beast, and its fate is
to have life while you live, Diarmuid, and to die when you die." Then
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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