Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
of the Latin communities.
The waterside settlements outside the walls of Galata were and are
prevailingly Turkish. The Christian expansion followed the crest of the
hill, founding the modern Pera. But there is a leaven of Islam even in
Pera. Baïezid II built a mosque in the quarter of Asmalî Mesjid—Vine
Chapel—and a palace at Galata Seraï. This palace finally became a school
for the imperial pages, recruited from among the Christian boys captured
by the Janissaries, and existed intermittently as such until it was
turned into the Imperial Lyceum. Galata Seraï means Galata Palace, which
is interesting as showing the old application of the name. The word
Pera the Turks have never adopted. They call the place Bey O’lou—the
Son of the Bey. There is dispute as to the identity of this Bey. Some
say he was David Comnenus, last emperor of Trebizond, or Demetrius
Palæologus, despot of Epirus—the youngest son of the latter of whom, at
any rate, turned Turk and was given lands in the vicinity of the Russian
embassy. Others identify the Son of the Bey with Alvise Gritti, natural
son of a Doge of Venice, who became Dragoman of the Porte during the
reign of Süleïman the Magnificent, and exercised much influence in the
foreign relations of that monarch. Süleïman himself built in Pera, or on
that steep eastward slope of it which is called Fîndîklî—the Place of
Filberts. The view from the terrace of the mosque he erected there in
memory of his son Jihangir is one of the finest in Constantinople. It
was his father Selim I who established the Mevlevi, popularly called the
Whirling Dervishes, in Pera. There they remain to this day, though they
have sold the greater part of the vast estates they once owned, a little
island of peace and mysticism in the unbelieving town that has engulfed
them. It is the classic amusement of tourists on Friday afternoons to
visit their _tekkeh_; and a classic contrast do the noise and smiles of
the superior children of the West make with the plaintive piping, the
silent turning, the symbolism and ecstasy of that ritual octagon. Among
the roses and ivy of the courtyard is buried a child of the West who also
makes a contrast of a kind. He was a Frenchman, the Comte de Bonneval,
who, after serving in the French and Austrian armies and quarrelling with
the redoubtable Prince Eugene, came to Constantinople, became general
of bombardiers, governor of Karamania, and pasha of three tails. He
negotiated the first treaty of alliance made by Turkey with a Western
country, namely, with Sweden, in 1740.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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