Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
The greatest of the Princes of the Sea lies farther up the Bosphorus, at
Beshiktash. The name is a corruption of _besh tash_, five stones, from
the row of pillars on the shore to which he used to moor his galleys.
Known to Europe by the nickname Barbarossa, from his great red beard, his
true name was Haïreddin. Beginning life as a Greek pirate of Mitylene,
he entered the service of the Sultan of Tunis, captured Algiers on his
own account, and had the diplomacy to offer his prize to Selim I. Under
Süleïman the Magnificent he became the terror of the Mediterranean and
his master’s chief instrument in a lifelong rivalry with Charles V. He
died in 1546, full of years and honours, leaving a fortune of sixty
thousand ducats and three thousand slaves. He wished to be buried by the
sea, at the spot where he moored so often in his lifetime; but shanties
and boat yards now shut him off from the water. Nothing could be quainter
or quieter than the little railed garden near the steamer landing, where
a vine-covered pergola leads to the _türbeh_ of that turbulent man of
blood. His green admiral’s flag hangs over his catafalque, marked in
white with inscriptions, with an open hand, and with the double-bladed
sword that was the emblem of his dignity, while his admiral’s lanterns
hang in niches on either side of the simple mausoleum.
The harbour of Jason and Barbarossa—and very likely the one that gave
access to the Byzantine suburb of St. Mamas—is also the place where
Sultan Mehmed II started his ships on their overland voyage. At least
I can never see the valley of Dolma Ba’hcheh—the Filled-in Garden—into
which the sea formerly entered, without convincing myself that it must
have been the channel of that celebrated cruise and not the steeper hill
of Top Haneh. However that may be, the descendants of Mehmed II have long
shown a partiality for the neighbourhood. Ahmed I built a summer palace
there as long ago as the beginning of the seventeenth century. Mehmed IV,
Ahmed III, and Mahmoud I constructed others, while for the last hundred
years the sultans have lived there altogether. The existing palace of
Dolma Ba’hcheh, which occupies most of the old harbour, dates only from
1853. The villas of Yîldîz are more recent still. The neighbourhood of
majesty has done less for the imperial suburb than might elsewhere be
the case. No one seems to find anything incongruous in the fact that
one of the Sultan’s nearest neighbours is a gas house. The ceremony of
_selamlîk_, salutation, when the Sultan drives in state to mosque on
Friday noon, is the weekly spectacle of Beshiktash—though less dazzling
than it used to be. After his prayer the Sultan gives audience to
ambassadors and visitors of mark. I know not whether this custom goes
back to the time of Albert de Wyss, ambassador of the Holy Roman Empire,
who used to turn out his embassy when Selim II rode by to mosque, or to
that of the later Byzantine emperors, who received every Sunday the heads
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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