Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
Beïkos and the shores of its great bay were a favourite resort of sultans
long before the day of Mehmed Ali. In general, however, the Turks have
always preferred the narrow middle stretch of the Bosphorus; and for
most reasons I am with them. The summer _meltem_—which some derive from
the Italian _maltempo_—often intensely irritating near the mouth of the
Black Sea, is here somewhat tempered by the windings of the strait.
Then here the coasts of the two continents approach each other most
closely, are most gracefully modelled and greenly wooded. The Asiatic
shore in particular, which opposite Therapia is forbidding enough, is
here a land of enchantment, with its gardens, its groves, its happy
valleys, its tempting points and bays, its sky-line of cypresses and
stone-pines, its weathered wooden villages, its ruined waterside castle
of Anadolou Hissar, its far-famed Sweet Waters—and most so if seen from
Europe in a light of sunset or early morning. If Mehmed Ali lost his
palace at Beïkos—and on Arnaout-kyöi Point there are the ruins of another
one which he was stopped from building—several of the most enviable
estates along this part of the Bosphorus belong to his descendants. The
beautiful wooded cape of Chibouklou, on the Asiatic side, is crowned
by the mauresque château of the present Khedive. Directly opposite, on
the southern point of Stenia Bay, is the immense old tumble-down wooden
palace of his grandfather Ismaïl, the spendthrift Khedive of the Suez
Canal, who died there in exile. The garden behind it is the largest and,
historically, one of the most interesting on the Bosphorus. The name of
the bay is derived, according to one story, from that of the Temple of
Sosthenia, or Safety, built by the Argonauts after their escape from
King Amycus. A temple of Hecate was also known there in more authentic
times, and a church dedicated to the Archangel Michael by Constantine
the Great. On a stormy night of 1352, the admirals Nicolò Pisani of
Venice and Paganino Doria of Genoa unwittingly took shelter in the bay
within bow-shot of each other, during an interval of a long sea-fight
which raged between them the whole length of the Bosphorus. Emirgyan,
the name of the village in which the khedivial estate is situated, was
that of a Persian general who surrendered Erivan to Sultan Mourad IV in
1635, and who ended his days in pleasant captivity on this wooded shore.
His beautiful Persian palace of Feridoun was the wonder of its day. His
conqueror used often to visit him there, for Emirgyan was a man of wit
and an accomplished musician. Not only did he first introduce into Turkey
a sort of Persian bassoon and the four-stringed Persian _chartar_ from
which we get our guitar, but he marked a new epoch in Turkish music.
There were also other reasons why Mourad used to visit the palace of
Feridoun, where, “in the design of refreshing his vital spirits and of
summoning the warmth which awakens joy, it pleased” the Sultan “to give
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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