Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
rein to the light courser of the beverage of the sunrise”—as a discreet
historian put that violent young man’s propensity to strong waters.
It was after a debauch here that he died, at the age of twenty-eight,
having beheaded a hundred thousand of his people and having entertained
a strange ambition to be the last of his line. He gave orders on his
death-bed that the head of his brother Ibrahim, the last surviving male
of his blood, be brought to him. But his courtiers took advantage of his
condition to dissemble their disobedience, and the imperial family to-day
springs from that brother. As for the luckless Emirgyan, he saved his
head from the elder brother, only to be deprived of it by the younger.
At Roumeli Hissar, still farther to the south, is a neglected garden
which belonged to Halim Pasha, brother of the prodigal Ismaïl. In it
are two unpretentious houses which look as if they were built of brown
stucco. There is sentiment in that stucco, however, for it is really mud
brought from the banks of the Nile. According to the law of Islam Halim
would have been Khedive in turn if Ismaïl had not bound the Turkish
government, by a substantial _quid pro quo_, to make the viceroyalty
hereditary to the eldest son in his own family. And Halim Pasha’s
family later suffered the misfortune to be nearly ruined by an English
speculator.
But there is one spot in their park which must have gone far to make up
for their disinheritance. It is the brow of a bluff which seems to drop
sheer into the Bosphorus. There an artful group of cypresses and one
gnarled olive frame the blue below; and there on sunny afternoons, there
most notably on starry evenings, when shore lights curve fantastically
through the underlying darkness and all land and water sounds have some
summer magic in them, an Antony might dream away content the loss of
Egypt.
Halim Pasha owned another splendid garden on Bebek Bay. Next to his faded
pink wooden _yalî_ in the dignified old Turkish style, and likewise
linked by bridges across the public road to a park that climbs the hill
behind, is the trim _art-nouveau_ villa of the actual Khedive’s mother.
This majestic old lady is one of the most familiar figures on the
Bosphorus. Her annual approach and departure on her son’s big turbine
yacht _Mahroussah_ are the signals for spring and autumn to open their
campaigns, while her skimming mahogany steam-launch is an integral part
of summer. She is, moreover, a person whom the poor of her neighbourhood
have cause to bless. During the lenten month of Ramazan she provides
_iftar_, the sunset breakfast of the day, for any who choose to come
to her door. So many choose to come that during that month her grocery
bills must be quite appalling. And on occasions of public rejoicing she
literally keeps open house—or open garden. She admits any and all within
her gates, offers them coffee, ices, and cigarettes, and entertains them
with music.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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