Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
An even more striking ceremony takes place on Saturday night. About
midnight people begin to gather in the churches, which are aromatic
with the flowering bay strewn on the floor. Every one carries a candle
but none are lighted—not even before the icons. The service begins with
antiphonal chanting. The ancient Byzantine music sounds stranger than
ever in the dim light, sung by the black-robed priests with black veils
over their tall black caps. Finally, the celebrant, in a purple cope
of mourning, withdraws behind the _iconostásion_, the screen that in
a Greek church divides the holy table from the chancel. As the chant
proceeds candles are lighted in certain chandeliers. Then the door of
the sanctuary is thrown open, revealing a blaze of light and colour
within. The celebrant comes out in magnificent vestments, holding a
lighted candle and saying: “Come to the light.” Those nearest him
reach out their own tapers to take the sacred fire, and from them it
is propagated in an incredibly short time through the entire church.
In the meantime the priests march in procession out-of-doors, headed
by a banner emblematic of the resurrection. And there, surrounded by
the flickering lights of the congregation, the celebrant chants the
triumphant resurrection hymn. At this point tradition demands that the
populace should express their own sentiments by a volley of pistol-shots.
But since the reactionary uprising of 1909, when soldiers took advantage
of the Greek Easter to make such tragic use of their own arms, an attempt
has been made in Constantinople to suppress this detail. I have been told
that each shot is aimed at Judas. The unfaithful apostle, at all events,
used to be burned in effigy on Good Friday at Therapia. And I have heard
of other customs of a similar bearing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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