Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
Part of it covered the adjoining slopes, where peaceably inclined
spectators, including Turkish women not a few, might also contemplate
the blossoming peach-trees that added their colour to the occasion,
and the farther panorama of Bosphorus and Marmora. But the crux of the
proceedings was in a small hollow below the tomb. I must confess that I
shrank from joining the press of the faithful about the grotto of the
sacred fount. I contented myself with hovering on their outskirts. A
black group of priestly cylinders marked the densest part of the crowd,
and near them a sheaf of candles burned strangely in the clear spring
sunlight. A big refreshment tent was pitched not too far away to receive
the overflow of devotion, reaching out canvas arms to make further space
for tables and chairs. The faded green common to Turkish tents was lined
with dark red, appliquéd to which were panels of white flower-pots and
flowers. I wondered if the tent-man wittingly repeated this note of the
day. For flowers were everywhere in evidence. Lilacs, tulips, hyacinths,
jonquils, violets, and narcissi were on sale under big green canvas
umbrellas at the edge of the hollow, while every other pilgrim who came
away from the _áyazma_ carried a bottle of holy water in one hand and a
spring flower in the other.
Interesting as is the _panayíri_ of the forty martyrs, it does not rank
with the later and greater spring festival of St. George. This also has
Turkish affiliations—at least in Constantinople and Macedonia. Both races
count St. George’s Day, April 23d/May 6th, the official beginning of
summer—of the good time, as modern Greek pleasantly puts it. The Turks,
however, dedicate the day to Hîd’r Eless. But it is not too difficult to
relate this somewhat vague personage to our more familiar friend Elijah,
who in his character of St. Elias shares with St. George the mantle of
Apollo. Nor is the heavenly charioteer the only one of the Olympians
whose cult survives to-day among their faithful people. The Hebrew
prophet would doubtless have been much astonished to learn that he was to
be the heir of a Greek god. He owes it partly to the similarity of his
name to the Greek word for sun and partly to the chariot of fire that
carried him out of the world. As for “the infamous George of Cappadocia,”
as Gibbon denominates the patron saint of our ancestral island, his part
in the heritage of Apollo is due to his dragon, cousin german to the
python of the Far Darter. The sanctuaries of these two Christian legatees
of Olympus have replaced those of Apollo on all hilltops, while their
name-days are those when men feasted of old the return and the midsummer
splendour of the sun.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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