Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
Altogether the habit of the coffee-house is one that requires a certain
leisure. Being a passion less violent and less shameful than others, I
suppose, it is indulged in with more of the humanities. You do not bolt
coffee as you bolt the fire-waters of the West, without ceremony, in
retreats withdrawn from the public eye. Neither, having taken coffee,
do you leave the coffee-house. On the contrary, there are reasons why
you should stay—and not only to take another coffee. There are benches
to curl up on, if you would do as the Romans do, having first neatly
put off your shoes from off your feet. There are texts and patriotic
pictures to look at, to say nothing of the wonderful brass arrangements
wherein the _kahveji_ concocts his mysteries. There is, of course, the
view. To enjoy it you sit on a low rush-bottomed stool in front of the
coffee-shop, under a grape-vine, perhaps, or a scented wistaria, or
a bough of a neighbourly plane-tree; and if you like you may have an
aromatic pot of basil beside you to keep away the flies. Then there are
more active distractions. For coffee-houses are also barber shops, where
men cause to be shaved not only their chins but different parts of their
crowns, according to their countries; and a festoon of teeth on a string
or a suggestive jar of leeches reminds you how catholic was once the art
of the barber in other parts of the world. There is also the resource
of games—such as backgammon, which is called _tavli_ and played in
Persian, and draughts, and cards. They say, indeed, that bridge came from
Constantinople. There is a club in Pera which claims the honour of having
communicated that passion to the Western world. But I must confess that
I have yet to see an open hand of the long narrow cards you find in a
coffee-house.
[Illustration: Playing _tavli_]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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