Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
During the days and nights of flags and illuminations that followed
there were other sights to see. One of them was the _Selamlîk_ of the
ensuing Friday. It took place at St. Sophia, whither Mehmed II rode to
pray after his conquest of Constantinople, and where popular opinion
willed that a later Mehmed, after this memorable recapture of the town,
should make his first public prayer. About this ceremony was none of
the pomp that distinguished the one I had witnessed the week before.
A few Macedonian Blues were drawn up by the mosque, a few Macedonian
cavalrymen guarded the gates of the Seraglio, and they were not all
in place by the time the Sultan, in a new khaki uniform, drove slowly
through the grounds of that ancient enclosure. Again, on the succeeding
Monday, we beheld the grisly spectacle of those who fomented the mutiny
among the soldiers, and who, in long white shirts, with statements of
their names and deeds pinned to their bosoms, swung publicly from great
tripods at the scene of their several crimes—three at the Stamboul end
of the Bridge, five in front of Parliament, and five in the square of
the War Department. And the new Sultan was once more the centre of
interest on the day he was girded with the sword of Osman. He went to
the sacred mosque of Eyoub with little of the pageantry that used to
celebrate that solemn investiture—in a steam-launch, distinguishable
from other steam-launches only by a big magenta silk flag bearing the
imperial _toughra_. From Eyoub he drove round the walls to the Adrianople
Gate, and then through the city to the Seraglio. His gala coach, his
scarlet-and-gold coachman, his four chestnut horses, his blue-and-silver
outriders, and his prancing lancers were the most glittering part of that
long procession. The most Oriental part of it was the train of carriages
bearing the religious heads of the empire, white-bearded survivors of
another time, in venerable turbans and green robes embroidered with gold.
But the most significant group in the procession was that of the trim
staff of the Macedonian army, on horseback, headed by Mahmoud Shefket
Pasha. Not least notable among the conquerors of Constantinople will be
this grizzled, pale, thin, keen, kind-looking Arab who, a month before
that day, was an unknown corps commander in Salonica. His destiny willed
that hardly more than four years after that day he should even more
suddenly go again into the unknown. His fate was a happy one in that it
overtook him at the height of power a Turkish subject may attain, when
he was at once Field-Marshal, Minister of War, and Grand Vizier, and
that it left in suspense the colder judgment of his time with regard
to the actual degree of his greatness. Legends and hatreds naturally
gathered around such a man. I do not know whether it was true that he
took the city before he was ready, with barely fifteen thousand men,
on a sudden night warning that the desperate Sultan plotted a massacre
for the next day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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