Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
Neither was I there to see whether he actually sent
back to the new Sultan his present of a magnificent Arab charger, saying
that he was a poor man and had no stable for such a steed. The crucial
test of the Balkan War he had no opportunity to undergo. But less than
any other personality discovered by the Turkish revolution does he need
the favouring kindness of uncertainty. At the moment when if he chose
he might have been dictator, he did not choose. And the decision, the
promptness, the tact, the strategic ability with which he grasped the
situation of the mutiny and threw an army into Chatalja before the
blundering mutineers knew what he was about, made for him the one clear
and positive record of that confused time. They say he suffered from an
incurable disease, and captured cities for distraction.
[Illustration: Mehmed V on the day of sword-girding, May 10
Photograph by Apollon, Constantinople]
I had the honour of meeting Mahmoud Shefket Pasha a little later, in
company with Mr. Booth; and I owed it to the latter’s bandaged head and
to the interest which the general took in the wounded journalist that I
also obtained the coveted leave to visit Yîldîz. Yîldîz had so long been
a name of legend that one approached it with the vividest curiosity—even
though the innermost enclosure, jutting out into the park from the
crest of the hill on a gigantic retaining wall, at first remained
impenetrable. When at last the gates of the Forbidden City itself were
opened, it was strange to discover that the Sultan who stood for all that
was conservative and Oriental, who spent as he pleased the gold of the
empire, who might have created anew the lost splendours of the Seraglio,
had chosen to surround himself with would-be European cottages, for the
most part of wood, with a profusion of gables and jig-saw carpentry.
The more ornate were those intended for the reception of ministers and
ambassadors. The simplest and the largest was the long, low, L-shaped
structure where Abd ül Hamid lived with his extensive family. His private
apartments gave a singular picture of that singular man. The rooms were
all jealously latticed, even behind the fortifications of Yîldîz, and
one was scarcely to be distinguished in its use from another, so full
were they all of desks, screens, couches, weapons, and pianos. In one
of the least ambiguous, where white chairs stood about a long table,
was shown the gilt Vienna _Récamier_ in which Abd ül Hamid received the
notification of his dethronement. An orchestrion filled one end of the
room, where also was a piano. No less than four of these instruments
were in another room. Farther on were the empty safes where the old man
hoarded his gold and his famous jewels, a cupboard of ugly tiles that
was a mixture of Turkish _hamam_ and European bath, without the luxuries
of either, and a perfectly appointed carpenter’s shop. It is an old
tradition for the princes of the house of Osman to learn some trade,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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