Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
These _türbehs_, with the fountains of the outer courtyard and the trees
that shade them and the minarets that tower above the trees, give an
oddly Turkish air to the precincts of St. Sophia. It is to a real mosque,
however, that one must go for a typical mosque yard. A part of it that
is lacking to St. Sophia, and, indeed, to many mosques, is another inner
enclosure called the _haram_, or sanctuary. This forecourt of the mosque
is always more architectural than the “garden,” being a paved quadrangle
surrounded by an arcade. In the centre of the cloister a covered fountain
should bubble, sometimes under trees. I have already mentioned one
of the best examples of such a court. It belongs to the old mosque of
Sultan Baïezid II, more popularly known as the Pigeon Mosque. This is
less of a sanctuary than any other forecourt in Stamboul. But the reason
is that the mosque lacks an outer yard other than the square of the War
Department. And I would be the last to find fault with the scribes who
sit in the arcades, or to call them Pharisees who sell beads and perfumes
there. During the month of Ramazan a busy fair is held there, open only
during the afternoon, where the complicated sweetmeats of the season
are sold together with other things worthy to be given as presents at
_Baïram_. I must say, however, that I have a weakness for the court of
another old mosque, that of Sultan Selim I, in a less accessible part of
Stamboul. Part of its charm is perhaps due to the fact that it is more
remote and therefore more subject to silence. Above the barred windows
that look into the outer sunlight are lunettes of tiles, while around the
fountain cypresses and grape-vines make an inimitable shade. Nor can I
pass by the court of Sokollî Mehmed Pasha, the last and greatest vizier
of Süleïman I. This is supposed to be a lesser work of Sinan, but I like
it almost better than any other. Within the mosque are treasures of
tiles, of stained glass, of painted wood, of perforated marble. Without
is one of the noblest porticoes in Stamboul, looking down upon a cloister
that is a real cloister. For into its colonnade open cells where live the
students of a _medresseh_.
[Illustration: The main entrance to the court of Sokollî Mehmed Pasha]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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