Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
innocent-looking hole in the courtyard of the mosque winds down into
a black subterranean maze of passages, stairways, cells, and tiers of
arches climbing above bottomless pits. So much earth and rubbish have
sifted into this extraordinary labyrinth that its true extent can only
be guessed at until it is systematically excavated. In the meantime,
archæology has been very busy discussing which of the two contiguous
towers that form a part of it was the tower of Anemas, and whether
either of them was the tower of the emperor Isaac Angelus. The Anemas in
question was a Byzantinised Arab, descendant of the Emir who surrendered
Crete to Nicephorus Phocas, and he had the honour of being the first of
many prisoners of state to be shut up in his tower. Whichever it may have
been, however, the most unarchæological visitor is capable of enjoying
a dip into that romantic darkness and the view, from the terrace, of a
cypressed country beside the Golden Horn.
[Illustration: The Palace of the Porphyrogenitus]
On top of the hill stands the well-preserved ruin known in Turkish as
Tekfour Seraï, the Palace of the Crown-Wearer. As to its real name,
there has been the most fanciful variety of opinions. The palace is now
generally supposed, however, to have been built in the tenth century by
Constantine Porphyrogenitus. It seems to have been separate from the
Palace of Blacherne, though on the analogy of the Great Palace it may
have belonged to the same group. Architects as well as archæologists take
a particular interest in Tekfour Seraï, because it is the only authentic
piece of domestic building left of Byzantine Constantinople. The main
façade is divided into three tiers of arched windows and ornamented by
a mosaic of dark and light stone that recalls the brickwork of later
Byzantine churches. What the general effect does not recall is the
Venetian version of Byzantine civil architecture. We should not take that
version too literally, of course, any more than the Venetian Gothic;
but St. Mark’s is so true a transcription of a Byzantine church—without
the crockets—that one has the more faith in the palaces. The difference
may be chiefly one of periods. It is noticeable that the spacing of the
arches of Tekfour Seraï is not like that of the _Fondaco dei Turchi_,
to whose designed irregularity Ruskin drew attention. Neither has the
checker-work of the façade anything in common with the plaques of
porphyry and serpentine reflected in the Grand Canal. It suggests,
rather, the checker-work of the Ducal Palace. The first tier of arches,
too, looks like the same kind of ground arcade. Is it possible that any
influence interacted between the two palaces? If so the presumption
would be that it worked in Venice, under a Gothic cloak; for the Ducal
Palace, or the lagoon front of it, belongs to the century after the Latin
occupation of Constantinople. In the light of my question this latter
detail is interesting, since the features I have noted decorate only the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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