Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
In the court of the church and on the façade of the monastery toward the
Rue Tchinar—the Street of the Plane-Tree—are stone escutcheons bearing
the lilies of France and the arms of a Comte de St. Priest. He was a
French ambassador at the time of our Revolutionary War. The building
being under French protection and on the central street of old, of oldest
Galata—the one which climbs past the palace of the Podestà from the
water’s edge to the Tower—was occupied at different times by the notables
of the French colony. Among these, about the middle of the eighteenth
century, was a merchant named Louis Chénier. Settling as a young man
in Galata, he had become deputy of the nation—an office peculiar to the
colony from the time of Colbert—right-hand-man to the ambassador, and
husband, like many a European before and after him, of a Levantine lady.
Her family, that is, were of European—in this case of Spanish—origin, but
by long residence in the Levant and by intermarriage with Greeks had lost
their own language. The seventh child of this couple was André Chénier,
the poet of the French Revolution. His birthplace is marked by a marble
tablet. The poet never saw the Street of the Plane-Tree, however, after
he was three years old. He grew up in Paris, where, as every one knows,
he was almost the last victim of the Terror.
The largest mission left in Galata is S. Benoît, whose walls now
overshadow the least monastic quarter of the town. Its history is even
more varied than that of S. Pierre, having been occupied and reoccupied
at different times by the Benedictines, the Observants, the Capuchins,
and the Jesuits. The last were the longest tenants, carrying on a
devoted work for nearly two hundred years. After the secularisation of
their order in 1773 they were succeeded by the Lazarists, who have not
fallen behind in the high traditions of the mission. The place has a
distinctly mediæval air, with its high walls, its Gothic gateway, and its
machicolated campanile. Nothing is left, alas, of the mosaics which used
to decorate the church. After so many fires I fear there is no chance
of their being discovered under modern plaster. But the pillars of the
porch are doubtless those which a diplomatic father obtained by gift
from the Sheï’h ül Islam in 1686. And there are a number of interesting
tablets about the building. One of them records not too truthfully the
rebuilding of the church by Louis XIV. The most notable, perhaps, is the
tombstone of Rakoczy, Prince of Transylvania and pretender to the throne
of Hungary, who lived twenty years in exile at Rodosto, on the Sea of
Marmora. When he died there in 1738 his friends asked permission to bury
him in Galata, but were refused. They accordingly pretended to inter him
at Rodosto. As a matter of fact, his coffin was sent in one of the many
boxes containing his effects to S. Benoît. There the royal exile was
secretly buried in the church, his grave long remaining unmarked. Another
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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