Constantinople: The Story of the Old Capital of the EmpireHutton, William Holden
History
Constantinople: The Story of the Old Capital of the Empire
Hutton, William Holden
Istanbul (Turkey)
The Church of the Pantokrator stands high above the inner bridge, a
little below, and eastwards of, the mosque of Mohammed II. It is a
triple church, separated by columns and all entered from the narthex.
It is probable that it was founded by John Comnenus and his wife
Irene, who died in 1124. The exterior of the apses have much fine
work; and the door and windows of the narthex are well worth careful
examination. Outside in the rough square westwards of the church is a
fine tomb of _verde antico_ which is said to have been the tomb of the
Empress Irene, on which the crosses still remain. Of the three
churches the northern was monastic and the central was the mausoleum
of the Comneni. There slept Irene and her husband John I., Manuel I.
and his wife Irene, a third Irene, the wife of Andronicus II., and
Manuel II. who drove back the Turks from the walls. During the Latin
occupation this church was the patriarchal cathedral; there Morosini
had his throne; and there the holy picture of the B. V. M. (see above
p. 263) was kept by them. When Michael VIII. returned it was brought
forth and borne before him through the Golden Gate. Here in 1453 dwelt
Gennadios who prophecied incessantly against the union of the
churches, and hence he was brought when after the capture of the city
he was chosen patriarch. It is a church of many memories, now almost
deserted. Near it is the ancient library of the monastery, a quaint
disfigured octagonal building that peers over a high wall in a narrow
by-street.
[Illustration: CHURCH OF THE PANTOKRATOR]
These churches--and there are many more--now mosques, yet retain some
of their old dignity; and if they should ever come again into
Christian hands it is very likely that many mosaics and much early
work in them would be rediscovered.
There is another which I cannot forbear to mention, though it hardly
repays the search for it. For many hours in April 1896 did I wander
and inquire and grope through filthy streets, followed by filthier
Turks, whose attentions became embarrassing, till I relieved myself of
them by means of a stern gaze, a threatening forefinger, and a
solemnly delivered passage from Euclid, in English. It is not far from
Aivan Serai, and is approached through the wall now broken down. It is
now called Atik Mustapha Pasha Djamissi, but was consecrated in 451 as
the Church of SS. Peter and Mark, having been built by two patricians,
Gallius and Candidus, "on the shore of the Golden Horn, in the quarter
of Blachernae." It is a sordid, decrepit hovel to-day; but outside it
stands its ancient font, made of a single block of marble, and with
three steps descending to the bottom. It belongs probably to the
earliest years of the reign of Justinian. A pathetic memory, it is
forgotten and uncared for save by a few faithful Greeks who cleanse it
secretly from time to time. Is it ever used secretly now?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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