These may stand for examples of the many churches which still remain from Byzantine days. But there are others which should not be forgotten. The Church of the Patriarchate and the little S. Mary Mouchliotissa have been mentioned already (above, p. 155). The Armenian patriarch has his throne in the Church of S. George in the Psamatia. The churches in Pera and Galata are worth a visit, and notably S. Georgio a Monte, near the Ottoman bank, and the Armenian church of S. Gregory, built in 1436, and buried in a back street above the wharfs not far from Top-haneh. This last contains some fine MSS. and a sacred picture of Christ, of great antiquity. It witnessed fearful tragedies in 1876. The open apse of the Armenian churches, with its altar covered with candles, contrasts with the hidden holy table of the orthodox church, plain, and concealed behind the high iconostasis with its closed gates. The Christianity of Pera and Galata is a strange contrast to the solemn Mohammedanism of Stambûl. But it is impossible to attend the offering of the Holy Eucharist in the orthodox churches of Pera and of the Phanar without feeling how firm and enthusiastic is the faith of the worshippers. They stand indeed, hardly less than the Armenians, always on the verge of the undiscovered country. Ἕως πότε ὁ Δεσπότης. FOOTNOTES: [51] See especially "Les Débuts du Monachisme à Constantinople" (Pargoire) in _Revue des questions historiques_, Jan. 1899, pp. 133, _sqq._ [52] In 1896 and 1899 application was made on my behalf by the British Ambassador; on the last occasion the Sultan granted an irardé. [53] This can be reached from the Hippodrome by a road going southwards, and easy to find. [54] _Aedif._ I. i.--The translation here used is that of Mr Aubrey Stewart, published by the Palestine Pilgrims' Text Society, with alterations by the late Mr Harold Swainson, as published in the admirable work of Mr W. R. Lethaby and himself, _Sancta Sophia, Constantinople, a Study of Byzantine Building_, 1894 (pp. 24-29). Messrs Lethaby and Swainson insert explanatory divisions of the description, thus '_The Apse_,' etc. I have inserted the Greek words where they have transliterated them, and made an occasional slight alteration. The value of Messrs Lethaby and Swainson's work as an architectural translation is great. [55] Evagrius, _Hist. Eccl._, iv. 31. [56] It may be read in Migne's Patrologia Græca, lxxxvi. (2), and in the translation in Messrs Lethaby and Swainson's book. [57] Quoted from Lethaby and Swainson, p. 45. [58] Kraus, _Geschichte der Christlichen Kunst_, i. 361, 362. [59] See Lethaby and Swainson, pp. 21 and _sqq._ [60] See Lethaby and Swainson. [61] Murray's "Guide" gives a complete list of the subjects. [Illustration: PART OF THE WALLS OF THEODOSIUS: THE SEVEN TOWERS IN THE BACKGROUND] CHAPTER IV _The Walls_