Constantinople: The Story of the Old Capital of the EmpireHutton, William Holden
History
Constantinople: The Story of the Old Capital of the Empire
Hutton, William Holden
Istanbul (Turkey)
So much may I say of the mosques. But a word more is needed for their
inseparable attendants. By the Valideh mosque, begun by one sultan's
mother, after whose murder it was completed by her rival, is the great
türbeh which contains, in two chambers, a host of princes and
princesses, and five sultans--Mohammed IV., deposed in 1687, who died
in 1693; Mustafa II., deposed in 1703; Ahmed III., deposed in 1730;
Mahmûd I., 1754; and Osman III., 1757. Of these, the last two alone
died peaceably in possession of the throne.
One other türbeh besides those I have named claims especial mention.
It is that of Mahmûd II., the Reformer, and it stands by itself near
the Column of Constantine. It is the most modern in date and style, a
domed octagon of white marble lighted by seven windows, an atrocious
example of the style which our grandfathers thought rich and
dignified. At the right as one enters lies the mother of Mahmûd. In
the midst is the Reformer himself, a black pall, elaborately worked,
thrown over the catafalque. At the head is, for the first time, the
fez, the symbol of the reform, but it has attached, as of old, the
great tuft of heron's feathers. At the left is the resting-place of
Abdul Aziz, again with a splendid covering, and at the head a simple
fez. The last of the dead sultans--for Murad cannot be counted--who
entered as none of his predecessors had done into the social life as
well as the politics of European courts, yet was deposed and died a
violent death, fitly ends the list. As you stand by his coffin you see
the lesson of Turkish history for to-day. Outwardly, save for the fez,
all is as with the sultans five centuries ago: and the spirit of
Turkish life has not changed, and will not change.
[Illustration: IN A TÜRBEH]
[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO THE TÜRBEH OF SELIM II. AT S. SOPHIA]
Its worst expression is recalled in the blood and luxury which are
linked with the names of these two sultans. Its best is attached to
the one other architectural feature of the city which I must mention
in this place. One of the most beautiful and most characteristic
sights that strikes the western traveller as he wanders through
Stambûl is the fountain outside every mosque and at almost every
street corner. Hundreds of them are worth lingering over. Here I will
only mention one. Outside the Bâb-i-Humayûn, the gate upon which the
heads of so many disgraced officials have been placed, and under the
shadow of S. Sophia, is the most beautiful of all, designed by Ahmed
I. himself. White marble it is, with beautiful arabesques and
elaborate inscriptions in those graceful elaborations of kaligraphy in
which the Turks have always excelled. It is the most elaborate of all
the fountains, but the little ones at the street corners, with an
arched or domical pent-house above them and some small decorative
inscription above the marble founts, have a simple charm of their own.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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