Constantinople: The Story of the Old Capital of the EmpireHutton, William Holden
History
Constantinople: The Story of the Old Capital of the Empire
Hutton, William Holden
Istanbul (Turkey)
As one turns away from the Turkish buildings and tries to sum up the
impressions which the architecture represented by the mosques of
Constantinople leaves on the student of other styles, there are
criticisms which are natural and inevitable. How little variety, we
say; how tiresome, this similarity of design! The Turks indeed have
felt it themselves, but they have been unable to set themselves free.
For indeed the lack is the hopeless one, the sheer absence of
originality, in every feature. We may call one mosque more eastern
than another, but it would puzzle us to find a single feature in any
of them, except the Mihrab, which is not ultimately Christian. The
feeling, it is true, differs; but that will be felt, by Westerns at
least, to be a conspicuous defect. There is no sense of the mystery
that lies behind all life, the solemn awe in which alone man may fitly
draw nigh to God. All is clear, complete, satisfied, protestant of its
completeness and satisfaction. Is there anything, one feels, beyond
man and this world? Certainly here there is nothing to raise thought
to heaven, to help to pierce behind the veil. Is it fanciful to say
that something of this it is that makes the difference between the
windows of a Christian church and those of a mosque? The mosques have
windows of the plainest, ugliest, most staring. Can anything be more
pitiable than the windows of Ahmed's, the characteristic Turkish
mosque? No tracery, no stained glass, nothing that uplifts or
separates from the outer world.
Yet to all this there must be a corresponding gain. From this
absorption in the things of the present, this satisfaction with the
work of men's hands, comes often a real perfection of detail. How
often the fore-court is an admirable piece of building, worth
examination and imitation at every point! Yet even here there is the
exception that detracts from the merit of all Southern "pointed" work:
the arches will not remain firm of themselves, they must needs be tied
together with cross beams. How sordid and untidy this looks one sees
in a moment as one stands in the court of the Valideh mosque. But the
detail, we must insist, is often good, the niches notably so in the
"stalactite pattern," which also appears in the capitals of late date
of sixteenth and seventeenth century building, as in the courts of
Ahmed and Valideh. Yet when all this is said, the chief glory of the
mosques, the best and most original feature of the Moslem art as we
see it in Constantinople, is the exquisite tile-work everywhere and of
every date. It brings us back again, as we end this chapter, to the
magnificent Sultan and his proud wife. The choicest art surrounds the
tomb of the Circassian, and there
The walls that shut thee from the sun,
The potter's art made bright with blue,
Where leaf and tendril overrun
The Persian porcelain's ivory hue,
And blazon'd letters, twisting thro'
Proclaim there is no God but One.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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