De Amicis, Edmondo, 1846-1908 -- Travel -- Turkey -- Istanbul; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel
After leaving Cheragan behind, we see on our left the large village
of Orta, above which appears the shining dome of the mosque erected
by the Validéh Sultan, mother of Abdul-Aziz, and the graceful roofs
of the palace of Riza-Pasha at the foot of a hill from whose summit
the light and shining walls of the imperial kiosk of the Star peep out
from amid a dense mass of foliage. Orta Keui contains the residences of
a number of Greek, Armenian, and Frankish bankers, and as we passed,
the Constantinople boat was in the act of landing her passengers. A
crowd of persons went ashore, other crowds stood waiting to embark;
there were Turkish and Armenian gentlemen, officers, monks, eunuchs,
dandies, fezzes, turbans, hats like bushel-measures, little caps, all
jumbled together--a scene similar to that which may be witnessed at any
one of the twenty boat-landings along the Bosphorus, more especially
toward evening. Opposite Orta Keui is the gay little village of
Chengel--village of the _anchor_; from an old iron anchor found on its
shore by Muhammad II.[L] It is surrounded by villas, while on the shore
stands that imperial kiosk of infamous celebrity from which Murad IV.,
transported with envious rage, ordered the execution of those groups of
country-people whom he saw passing happily through the fields singing
as they went.
[L] Chengel Keui takes its name from the bend in the shore at
that point.--TRANS.
Turning again toward the shore of Europe, we find ourselves on a line
with the pretty village and charming harbor of Kuru Chesmeh, the
ancient Anaplus.[M] Here Medea landed with Jason and planted the famous
laurel tree. Then, looking back again to Asia, we see the smiling
villages of Kulehli and Vani spread out along the shore to right and
left of a huge barrack whose reflection in the water resembles more
that of a royal palace. Back of the two villages rises a hill whose
summit is crowned by a large garden, in the midst of which, barely
discernible among the branches of the trees, glimmers the white kiosk
where Suleiman the Great passed three years of his life, hidden away
in a little tower, to escape the spies and executioners of his father,
Selim. While we are trying to identify the tower amid the trees the
steamer has passed Arnaût-Keui--the Albanian village--now peopled by
Greeks, whose houses surround a small bay in the European shore full of
sailing vessels. But there is no use in attempting to see everything.
One village draws away our attention from another; a beautiful mosque
distracts us from an exquisite landscape; and while we are gazing
at villages and harbors we have missed palaces of viziers, pashâs,
sultans, chief eunuchs, and other prominent persons; yellow, blue,
and purple houses hung with vines and creepers, seeming to float upon
the top of the waves or overflow with bloom, half buried in groves of
cypress, laurel, and orange trees; buildings with Corinthian façades
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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