De Amicis, Edmondo, 1846-1908 -- Travel -- Turkey -- Istanbul; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel
ornamented with rows of white marble columns; Swiss châlets, Japanese
huts, little Moorish palaces, Turkish kiosks, whose three stories
project one beyond the other, the grated galleries of their harems
overhanging the Bosphorus, while little flights of stairs lead down
to gardens washed by the waves. All the buildings are small, light,
unsubstantial, corresponding precisely to the nature of the power
wielded by those who inhabit them--the triumph of youth, the success of
an intrigue, a high office which may be forfeited to-morrow, a glory
doomed to end in exile, a fortune destined to evaporate, a greatness
which will crumble away. There is hardly an unoccupied spot on the
Bosphorus: it is like a sort of Grand Canal running through a huge
rural Venice. Villas, kiosks, and palaces rise one behind the other,
so placed as to leave the façade of each in view, those in the rear
seeming to perch upon the roofs of those in front, while between and
behind them is a mass of green, the tops and points of oaks, plane
trees, maples, poplars, pines, and fig trees, through whose branches
may be seen sparkling fountains and the gleaming domes of lonely
türbehs and solitary mosques.
[M] Arnaût-Keui, the next village, is the Anaplus of the
ancients.--TRANS.
Looking back at Constantinople, we can still make out, indistinctly,
the Seraglio Hill and the huge dome of St. Sophia rising darkly
against the gold and limpid background of the evening sky; meanwhile,
Arnaût-Keui, Vani, Kulehli, Chengel, Orta have all disappeared, and
our surroundings undergone an entire change. We now seem to be on an
immense lake; to right and left on either shore there opens a little
bay; around that on our left lies in a semicircle the pretty Greek town
of Bebek shaded by lofty trees, among which stand a fine old mosque and
the imperial kiosk of Humayun-Habad, where in former days the sultans
used to grant secret audiences to foreign ambassadors; on one side the
town is buried in the thick foliage of a little valley, on the other it
climbs the steep ascent of a hill covered with oak trees and crowned
by a grove famous for its echo, where the noise of a single horse’s
hoofs resounds like the tramp of a regiment. The view here would throw
a queen into raptures, and yet it is straight-way forgotten when we
turn to look at the opposite shore. There, indeed, it is a veritable
earthly paradise which is spread out before our eyes. Kandili,
variegated as a town of Holland, with its white mosque and train of
villas, describes a wide arc upon a bold promontory; behind it rises
the flowery hill of Igiadié, crowned by a battlemented tower where a
watchman is stationed to keep a lookout for any appearance of fire on
either shore. Two valleys open on the bay to the right of Kandili, and
quite close together, called respectively Big and Little _Blue River_,
and between them are the charming grounds of the Sweet Waters of Asia,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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