De Amicis, Edmondo, 1846-1908 -- Travel -- Turkey -- Istanbul; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel
crossed on their return from Asia; but no trace can now be found either
of the two pillars of Mandrokles nor of the rock-hewn throne of Mount
Hermæon from whence the Persian king watched the passage of his army.
A little Turkish village nestles at the foot of the castle, and the
Asiatic shore stretches away in the distance, ever greener and more
picturesque. There is an unbroken succession of boat-landings, little
houses, gardens, tiny valleys overflowing with vegetation, small inlets
across which the limbs of the gigantic trees which line their banks
nearly meet, while beneath white-sailed fishing-boats pass slowly along
on the placid surface of the water, and charming pleasure-grounds, gay
with flowers, shelve gently down to the shore, or terraced gardens
framed in verdure, while from the summits of the neighboring hills
gleam the white stones of little cemeteries.
[Illustration: Sweet Waters of Europe.]
Next Kaneijeh comes unexpectedly into view, its red houses covering
two rocky promontories on the Asiatic shore, against whose bases
the waves break with a musical sound, while above, the minarets of
its two charming mosques glisten among a dark mass of cypress trees
and umbrella pines. Along here the gardens rise one above the other
like terraces, and the villas recommence, among the latter being the
marvellously beautiful palace of the celebrated Fuad Pâsha, poet and
diplomat, vain, voluptuous, and charming, who has been called the
Ottoman Lamartine. A little farther on we come to the pretty village of
Balta Limân, situated at the opening of a small valley on the European
shore, through which a narrow stream flows, emptying itself into
the harbor. Above rises a hill whose sides are covered with villas,
conspicuous among which is the ancient palace of Reshid Pâsha. Then
comes the bay of Emir Ghian Oghlu Bagche, whose waters look green from
the surrounding cypress trees, among which gleams, white as snow, a
solitary mosque surmounted by a great globe with golden rays. The boat
meanwhile approaches first one shore and then the other, close enough
for us to distinguish clearly all the little details of the landscape.
Now it is the vestibule of the _selamlik_ of a wealthy Turk, opening
on the water, in front of which a big majordomo is stretched upon
a divan smoking; then a eunuch who stands upon the lowest step of a
landing-stair assisting two veiled Turkish ladies into a käik; farther
on an old Turk is seated cross-legged, meditating upon the Koran, at
the foot of an immense plane tree, which shades a garden enclosed
between green hedges; family parties are assembled upon the terraces
of their country-houses; herds of sheep and goats feed upon high
pasture-lands; horsemen gallop along the shore, and strings of camels
pass across the brows of the hills, their strange, unfamiliar shapes
outlined against the clear sky.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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