De Amicis, Edmondo, 1846-1908 -- Travel -- Turkey -- Istanbul; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel
planted with sycamore, oak, and plane trees, above which stands the
magnificent kiosk erected by the mother of Abdul-Mejid in the style
of the Dolmabâghcheh palace, surrounded by its gardens all red with
roses. Beyond the “Large Blue River” may be seen the brilliant colors
of Anadoli Hissar, built upon the side of a hill upon whose summit rise
the graceful towers of the Bayezid Ilderim, which exactly faces the
castle of Muhammad II. on the opposite shore.
At that hour this enchanting part of the Bosphorus is full of life
and movement; hundreds of little boats cover the bays and inlets of
the European shore; steamers and sailing vessels pass, bound for the
harbor of Bebek; Turkish fishermen busy themselves with their nets
suspended over the water from lofty poles and cross-beams; a throng
of passengers disembark from the Constantinople boat upon the stairs
of the European town--Greek gentlemen, Lazarists, students from the
American Protestant college, and family parties laden with shawls and
wraps. On the other side we can see with the aid of the glass parties
of Mussulman ladies walking about beneath the trees of the Sweet Waters
or seated in little groups on the banks of the “Blue Water,” while
numberless käiks and small boats with awnings, filled with Turkish
men or women, come and go along the shore. It is all so festive, so
Arcadian, so irresistibly charming, that I feel as though I must fling
myself overboard, and, swimming to one or the other of the two banks,
plant myself there with the fixed determination, come what may, to
live and die in the midst of that Mussulman paradise. All at once,
with a new change of scene, such ideas take flight: the Bosphorus now
stretches away directly ahead of us, with something of the look of the
Rhine, only it is a modified, softened Rhine, decked with the gorgeous
and varied coloring of the Orient. On the left a cemetery shaded by
groves of cypresses and pines forms the first break in the hitherto
uninterrupted chain of villages, and immediately after it, on the rocky
sides of Mount Hermæon, rise the three large towers of Rumili Hissar,
the Castle of Europe, surrounded by battlemented walls and lesser
towers, covering the incline to the water’s edge with picturesque
ruins. This is the renowned fortress erected by Muhammad II. a year
before the conquest of Constantinople in defiance of the indignant
remonstrances of Constantine, whose envoys, as every one knows, were
sent back threatened with death by way of reply. This is the narrowest
part of the Bosphorus, it being here only eight hundred and ten yards
wide, and the current is consequently so swift that it has obtained the
name of the “Great Current” from the Greeks and the “Devil’s Current”
from the Turks. It was here that Mandrokles of Samos constructed
the bridge of boats across which Darius conducted his seven hundred
thousand soldiers, and, as it is supposed, that the “Ten Thousand”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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