De Amicis, Edmondo, 1846-1908 -- Travel -- Turkey -- Istanbul; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel
We are now between the two bays of Therapia--formerly Pharmakia,
from Medea’s poisons--and Hunkiar Iskelesi, or Landing-place of the
Sultan, where the famous treaty of 1833 was signed which closed the
Dardanelles to foreign fleets. At this spot the spectacle of the
Bosphorus reaches the penultimate stage of its beauty. Therapia is the
finest of the towns which grace its banks, after Buyukdereh, while the
valley which extends behind Hunkiar Iskelesi is the greenest, most
charming and romantic valley to be found from the Sea of Marmora to
the Black Sea. Therapia is built partly upon a level strip of shore
at the foot of a large hill, and partly around a deep bay, which
forms its harbor and is filled with small boats and shipping. Back of
it opens the narrow valley of Krio-nero, where more of the town is
squeezed in between the green sides of the hills. The shore is dotted
with picturesque-looking cafés extending out over the water, handsome
hotels, gay little houses, and groups of lofty trees which shade open
squares and marble fountains; back of these are the summer residences
of the French, Italian, and English ambassadors, and beyond these,
again, stands an imperial kiosk. All up the hillsides are terrace upon
terrace, garden upon garden, villa upon villa, grove upon grove; people
dressed in vivid colors crowd in and out of the cafés, stream over the
harbor and shore and up the paths leading to the tops of the hills,
just as though some great fête were in progress. The Asiatic shore, on
the contrary, is tranquillity itself. The little village of Hunkiar
Iskelesi, a favorite place of residence among the wealthy Armenians of
Constantinople, sleeps quietly among its plane and cypress trees and
about its diminutive harbor, on the bosom of whose waters a few boats
may be seen gliding peacefully along. High above the village, upon the
summit of a vast incline of terraced gardens, towers the solitary and
magnificent kiosk of Abdul-Aziz, beyond which, again, extends the
favorite valley of the pâdishahs half hidden under dense masses of
tropical vegetation and surrounded by a dreamy mystery.
All of this marvellous beauty, however, fades into nothing a mile
farther on, when, the steamer having arrived off the Bay of Buyukdereh,
we are confronted by the crowning, the supreme glory of the Bosphorus.
Here he who has become weary of its beauty, and possibly allowed
himself to give utterance to some irreverent criticism, is forced to
bow his head and humbly beg for pardon. We are in the centre of a large
lake, so surrounded and hemmed in by marvels of every description that
there seems nothing for it but to begin spinning around in the bow,
like dervishes, so as to see all the shore and all the hills at once.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account