De Amicis, Edmondo, 1846-1908 -- Travel -- Turkey -- Istanbul; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel
On the European side, extending around a deep bay where the swift
current dies away in gentle little waves, and below a large hill whose
sides are dotted with innumerable villas, lies the town of Buyukdereh,
large, colored like a huge bed of flowers, and entirely composed of
small palaces, kiosks, and villas planted in the midst of a mass of
vegetation of the most vivid green imaginable, which seems to pour out
over the roofs and walls and overflow into the streets and squares.
To the right the town extends as far as an inlet like a smaller bay
in the large one, surrounded by the village of Kefeli; behind this a
wide valley opens, green with meadows and sprinkled with white houses,
following which one can reach the aqueduct of Mahmûd and the forest of
Belgrâd. Tradition says that the armies of the first Crusaders encamped
in this valley in 1096, and one of the seven gigantic plane trees
for which the spot is famous is called the plane tree of Godfrey de
Bouillon. Beyond Kefeli Keni is still another small bay, colored with
white and green reflections from the neighboring houses and trees, and
beyond this, again, Therapia is visible scattered along the base of her
dark-green hills.
Having allowed our gaze to wander thus far, we turn once more toward
Asia, and find with astonishment that we are opposite the loftiest
hill on the Bosphorus, the Giant’s Mountain, shaped like a huge green
pyramid, on whose summit is the celebrated grave to which three
separate legends have given the names, respectively, of “The Couch
of Hercules,” “The Grave of Amycus,” and “The Tomb of Joshua.” It is
now guarded by a couple of dervishes and visited by sick Mussulmans,
who carry thither the rags of their clothing according to a practice
in vogue among them. The forest-clad and vine-decked sides of the
mountain extend to the very water’s edge, where, between two bright
green promontories, lies the pretty bay of Umur Yeri, all streaked
with the hundred different colored reflections of a Mussulman village
on its shore, from which strings of villas and houses extend like
wings across the adjoining fields or like masses of flowers thrown
about at random. But the entire view is not confined to this body of
water: directly ahead of us glimmers the Black Sea, and looking back
toward Constantinople, we behold on the other side of Therapia, in the
dim purple distance, the bay of Kalender, Yeni Keui, Injir Keui, and
Sultanieh, looking far more like imaginary scenes from some dream-world
than actual towns and villages.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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