De Amicis, Edmondo, 1846-1908 -- Travel -- Turkey -- Istanbul; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel
To really get a good view of the Mussulman fair sex, you must go to
the Sweet Waters of Europe, at the head of the Golden Horn, on
one of the great feast-days, or to those of Asia, near the village of
Anadoli-Hissar. These are two extensive public gardens, watered by
two little rivers, and thickly sprinkled with trees, fountains, and
cafés. There, on a vast grassy plain, beneath the shade of walnuts,
terebinths, palm trees, and sycamores, forming a succession of
leafy pavilions, through which not so much as a ray of sunshine can
penetrate, may be seen thousands of women seated in circular groups
surrounded by their slaves, eunuchs, and children, lunching and passing
away half a day in each other’s company, while all around them crowds
are coming and going. On arriving you are at once captivated by this
scene, which resembles a festival in the Islam Paradise. The myriads of
white veils and scarlet, green, yellow, and gray _ferajehs_; the groups
of slaves dressed in every hue of the rainbow; the crowds of children
in their fanciful costumes; the great Smyrna rugs spread on the grass;
the gold and silver vessels passed from hand to hand; the Mussulman
waiters from the cafés in gala dress running hither and thither
carrying plates of fruit and ices; the gypsies dancing; the Bulgarian
shepherds playing on their pipes; the horses with silk and gilded
trappings stamping beneath the trees to which they are tied; the pashas
and beys and young gallants who gallop along the river’s bank; the
swaying of the distant crowd like the movement of the wind over a bed
of tulips and hyacinths; the gayly-painted käiks and elegant carriages
which every moment deposit fresh loads of color in that sparkling sea;
and the mingled melody of flute and pipe and tambourine, of voices
singing and children calling to one another; the play of light and
shade across the grass and thick foliage of the trees and shrubs, with
here and there a little glimpse of some distant view,--all combine to
form an effect of light and color, sound and movement, so perfect that
one’s first impulse is to clap his hands enthusiastically and cry,
“Bravo! bravissimi!” as though it were a masterly production on the
stage.
[Illustration: An Outing of the Women of the Harem.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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