_Difficile est satyram non scribere!_ To make a long story short: The
Roman host just broke the law, that's all. Indeed, those who made the
laws were first to break them. The minions, appointed to uphold the
law, were easily accounted for. Any food inspector too arduous in the
pursuit of his duty was disposed of by dispatching him to the rear
entrance of the festive hall, and was delivered to the tender care of
the chief cook.
Such was the case during the times of Apicius. Indeed, the Roman idea
of good cheer during earlier epochs was provincial enough. It was
simply barbaric before the Greeks showed the Romans a thing or two in
cookery. The methods of fattening fowl introduced from Greece was
something unheard-of! It was outrageous, sacrilegious! Senators,
orators and other self-appointed saviors of humanity thundered against
the vile methods of tickling the human palate, deftly employing all
the picturesque tam-tam and _élan_ still the stock in trade of ever so
many modern colleagues in any civilized parliament. The speeches, to
be sure, passed into oblivion, the fat capons, however, stayed in the
barnyards until they had acquired the saturation point of tender
luscious calories to be enjoyed by those who could afford them. How
the capon was "invented" is told in a note on the subject.
Many other so-called luxuries, sausage from Epirus, cherries from the
Pontus, oysters from England, were greeted with a studied hostility by
those who profited from the business of making laws and public
opinion.
Evidently, the time and the place was not very propitious for
gastronomic over-indulgence. Only when the ice was broken, when the
disregard for law and order had become general through the continuous
practice of contempt for an unpopular sumptuary law, when corruption
had become wellnigh universal chiefly thanks to the examples set by
the higher-ups, it was then that the torrent of human passion and
folly ran riot, exceeding natural bounds, tearing everything with
them, all that is beautiful and decent, thus swamping the great empire
beyond the hopes for any recovery.
APICIUS THE WRITER
Most of the Apician directions are vague, hastily jotted down,
carelessly edited. One of the chief reasons for the eternal
misunderstandings! Often the author fails to state the quantities to
be used. He has a mania for giving undue prominence to expensive
spices and other (quite often irrelevant) ingredients. Plainly,
Apicius was no writer, no editor. He was a cook. He took it for
granted that spices be used within the bounds of reason, but he could
not afford to forget them in his formulæ.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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